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When people travel to Japan for the first time there seems to be an almost set route. This usually includes Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. This makes sense, considering that you can easily get from one city to the next and there are plenty of international flights to/from Tokyo and Osaka.
However, I knew that I wanted to add some other stops to my itinerary and was pretty set on Shibu Onsen early on. Eventually, I also started to think about Hiroshima and began to wonder – is Hiroshima worth visiting? Considering that tragic history was made in the city it seemed like an important place to see to get a better understanding about Japan and the events that have shaped the country’s past and presence.
While you could do a Hiroshima day trip from Osaka, I decided to spend 2 nights so I could also do a trip to Miyajima Island.
Book a 1 day Hiroshima trip from Osaka
I was so glad that I decided to stay longer because not only is Hiroshima absolutely worth a visit but it became my favorite stop in Japan. The city reminded me of Berlin in the best way possible, it was incredibly green, and there was just a really good energy to it. You immediately feel that its title – Hiroshima, City of International Peace and Culture, is well deserved. Hiroshima is not as overwhelming and big as many other Japanese cities and instead, it feels young, modern, and friendly.
So how to plan your trip to Hiroshima and what to do? Read on because whether you plan a 1 day Hiroshima itinerary or want to stay longer, a visit should be on your Japan bucket list!
Hiroshima itinerary
Table of Contents:
What to do in Hiroshima
There are plenty of things to see and do in Hiroshima. Here are some of my favorites:
Peace Memorial Museum & Park
On August 6th, 1945 the U.S. dropped the world’s first atomic bomb over Hiroshima. It was an event that shaped the face of the city and of the world. The destruction was unbeknownst and the aftermath unthinkable.
In the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, you can learn more about the tragic day and the weeks and years that followed. The exhibit is haunting and very well done. I strongly recommend you take your time. Tickets are less than $1.50 and you can get them there or beforehand online. This might be better as you will be able to skip the line. I also recommend you get an audio guide.
Afterward, you will want to head to the Peace Memorial Park. It was once the commercial heart of the city. Today you can see the stark remainder of the day, the A-Bomb Dome, there. Known as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial it is the only building that was left standing in the vicinity. It is as eery as it gets. Please don’t take smiling selfies in front of it (yes, of course, some tourists did). In addition, there are other peace memorial facilities in the park, many a beautiful expression of hope for world peace.
This includes the Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims and the Children’s Peace Monument. You will see colored paper cranes everywhere around the monument. They are inspired by Japanese origami but today also an international sign for peace. The ones around the monument were inspired by Sadako Sasaki, one of the victims. The Children’s Peace Monument was built in her honor to remember all the children who lost their lives.
You can also do a half-day tour in Hiroshima with a guide. Great if you want to know a bit more about the history of the city.
Downtown Hiroshima
Close to the Peace Park, you will find Downtown Hiroshima, a great area for a stroll and to go shopping. Hondori Street is a covered shopping street with plenty of favorites like Muji and Uniqlo, souvenir shops, and boutiques as well as a pet store with the cutest and most expensive miniature dogs (I don’t care for purebreds but a cute puppy is a cute puppy).
On Aioi Street there are some bigger department stores and of course, you won’t have to do without a Don Quijote in Hiroshima either. Move away from the big streets and you will find small boutiques and eateries – Hiroshima is really fun for a stroll.
I also liked Alice Garden, an event space in front of the Okonomimura. It is a little Alice in Wonderland-themed square and often holds events, sometimes food trucks are there.
Hiroshima Castle
Hiroshima Castle was built in 1589 and is pretty much in the city center just north of Downtown. Once a true powerhouse in western Japan it was destroyed in 1945 and subsequently rebuilt 13 years later. Today it is home to a museum telling its history as well as the history of Japanese castles in general.
Admission is 370 yen (about $2.60) for the main keep while the rest of the castle grounds are free.
Hiroshima food tour
What to eat in Hiroshima? I am sharing some of my favorites below but if you are unsure where to start I recommend a food tour with Arigato Travel. They offer a sake-themed tour as well as an evening food tour in Hiroshima.
Read more about my Hiroshima food tour
I generally love food tours and this one was a lovely introduction not only to the cuisine but the town and its history overall. My evening tour included typical snacks, of course, Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki, craft beer and sake, and dessert. Overall it was a wonderful mix between traditional dishes and modern venues and very yummy. Definitely come hungry!
Book a Hiroshima food tour with Arigato Travel
Miyajima Island
If you plan a 2 day Hiroshima itinerary you should spend your second day doing a trip to Miyajima Island. Make sure to do it on a day with a good weather forecast because I imagine the island a bit miserable in the rain.
While you can book an organized tour to get there I don’t think it is necessary and they are quite pricey.
So how to get to Miyajima Island? First, you will take a JR train or the tram to the JR Miyajima Ferry Port. Put the name into Google Maps and it will show you the best connection to either Miyajimagucci station or Hiroden-Miyajimagucci station. Both are right by the ferry port.
There are JR ferries and Matsudai ferries. Both cost 200 yen one way and it takes about ten minutes to get there. If you use the latter you can just get a ticket or use your IC card. If you have a Japan Railpass you can use the JR ferry and this will be included in your pass. Visitors have to pay 100 yen visitor’s tax. If you are using a railpass you will need to pay for this separately. This is incredibly easy as there are many machines at the pier and there is always some helpful staff to support lost tourists.
The ferries run from morning till night in about 15-minute intervals.
Alternatively, you could take a fancy boat from Hiroshima Peace Park but this will cost you 4000 yen round trip plus visitor’s tax.
I recommend you make your way to Miyajima Island quite early to hang out with the deers because from 11 am it gets packed. That said, there are also a few places where you can stay the night and have most of the island to yourself after the daytrippers leave late in the afternoon.
Miyajima Island is a very sacred place also known as the Island of Gods and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most people come to Miyajima island to see the Itsukushima Shrine and its famous torii gate. The gate seems to be floating in the ocean during high tide and is considered one of the best sights in Japan. You don’t need to go to the shrine in order to see it but can access it from the beach all around. However, there is a great picture spot (and a queue to match) inside the shrine. The entrance fee is 300 yen (about $2).
But now, let’s talk about the deer! After all, the deer are what I really came for. Similar to Nara holy deer are roaming freely on the island. There are over 500 deer that have been living here for centuries. Unlike the deer in Nara, you are not supposed to feed them (no matcha ice cream for little deers!) and are therefore a whole less assholy. They may even pose with you for a picture or two.
If you want a proper hike you can take one of three walking trails up to Mount Misen for a stunning view of the Seto Inland Sea. There is also a ropeway that will take you towards but not all the way to the peak. Depending on which route you take the hike can be quite steep so make sure to have proper footwear.
Alternatively, do what I did and sit in the sun with a matcha latte and a Momijimanju. , the typical maple leaf-shaped Hiroshima cookies. While there even is a Starbucks I much preferred the local Miyajima Coffee. Behind the shrine, you can follow the river (or riverbed in my case) and see more deer. On the way, you have to pick up a matcha or vanilla ice cream with deer and Torii gate cookies – so cute! Just make sure the deers don’t get any.
Another culinary highlight on the island is yummy oysters that you can get fresh or grilled as well as anago. Anago is a Miyajima specialty – salt-water eel and the salty counterpart to unagi. There are plenty of restaurants all over town where you can get either. Personally, I went to a random eatery that had no line for an anago and rice bento and it was delicious.
How to get to Hiroshima and how to get around
Hiroshima does have an international airport, however, there are no direct flights from the US or Europe. You could get a domestic flight or possibly a connection from China, Korea, or Vietnam. The next airport with more connections is Osaka International.
I took the train from Osaka to Hiroshima and back. It only takes 1.5 hours with the Sanyo Shinkansen – just enough time to eat a train bento and watch the world go by. From Kyoto, you can take the Tokaiden Shinkansen which only takes a little longer, and from Tokyo, you can take the Nozomi 99 Hakata, a 3.5-hour trip.
If you have a JR Rail Pass this will be your best option. Alternatively, you can check for inexpensive domestic flights if you are coming from further away.
Getting around Hiroshima couldn’t be easier. First, it is a very walkable city. Especially the Peace Memorial Park and surrounding area were beautiful for a stroll. That said, I got lucky with a bit of sunshine. Sidewalks are wide and streets are quiet in many parts of town. The Hondori Shopping Street is a pedestrian-only street and covered – perfect if you want to go shopping in Hiroshima and the weather doesn’t play along.
For longer distances, you could also rent a bike. Bike rentals are known as Peacecle. You pay via an app or can get a daily pass at many convenience stores.
The probably most convenient way to get around Hiroshima is the tram known as Hiroden. There are 8 different lines which makes it Japan’s biggest tram network. Of course, you can take the tram from the train station to many parts of town. You can either get a daily pass or use an IC card like Suica or PASMO. I really liked the Hiroden as some trams were really cute and old-fashioned. Make sure to tap your card when you enter the tram and when you leave.
Alternatively, there are a few bus lines, perfect for sightseeing, that are operated by the Japan Rail. This is convenient as it means you can use them for free with your Rail Pass.
Where to eat in Hiroshima
Since I only had 2 nights in Hiroshima, I didn’t try a whole lot of places especially since I spent one evening doing a food tour. However, there are a few places I can recommend and specialties you have to try when eating in Hiroshima.
Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki is the local favorite. Unlike in Osaka, this pancake/pizza merge is done with only a little bit of batter but lots of cabbage. Where to find the best Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima? Head to the Okonomimura. This is a food court that spreads over multiple floors with a variety of stalls that all sell one thing: Okonomiyaki.
Eating oysters is another thing you cannot miss on your Hiroshima itinerary. After all, this is where almost 70 % of Japan’s oysters come from. You can get them in various styles from raw to grilled or as part of your Okonomiyaki.
One of my favorite meals however happened at めん処 栄家, a very local and unassuming udon restaurant in Hiroshima. I have linked to the Google Maps location as I have no idea what it is called in English. Not only was my udon delicious but you can also get a combo of udon bowls and dons (rice-based bowl). Either you choose a big udon and a small don or vice versa. Perfect, if you want the best of both worlds.
They also have a little wall of fame over the counter and while the majority were unknown Japanese names to me, there was also a flag signed by Earth Wind and Fire. I was majorly fangirling when I saw it!
And then I found Nekochigura. Unfortunately, I discovered this little natural wine bar right by my hotel too late to try the food. The menu looked fantastic alas I was full from my food tour. Instead, I went for a couple of glasses and was instantly entrailed. While it calls itself a curry and wine bar there are other dishes on the menu. The staff is lovely and passionate about interesting natural wines. The owner works for a vet during the day in case you wonder about the cat logo and cat memorabilia throughout. Quite a few bottles even have a cat on the label. Seems like a charmed life!
If you want to learn more or just drink some cracking Japanese wines and have good food in a cool venue, this is your place. Even if you are a dog lover.
Do not forget to buy snacks when you are in Hiroshima! As someone who is usually not a snack person, it came as quite a surprise to me how much I enjoyed the local sweets. The probably most well-known snack in Hiroshima is a Momijimanju, a little cake in maple leaf shape. Originally it was filled with sweet red bean paste but today you can get many different variations. You can find them in shops or from vending machines. The cakes are maple leaf shaped because ‘momiji’, maple leaves, have long been a symbol of Hiroshima.
Just walk down the Hondori Shopping Street – there a plenty of souvenirs and sweet shops where you will find something yummy and/ or unusual. Like the local lemon cookies and lemon cookies that are oyster-shaped. Whatever you buy, do get some matcha-covered macadamias and dried strawberries with white chocolate, you will thank me later!
Where to stay in Hiroshima
I stayed at KIRO Hiroshima, a beautiful design hotel not far from the Peace Memorial Park and downtown where Hondori Street is. The hotel has 11 different styles of rooms and lofts depending on what you need and how many people are sharing.
I stayed in the Japanese-style room with two twin tatami mats to sleep on. Luckily they were a lot more comfortable than my tatami bed at the Shibu Onsen ryokan and the room was fairly large considering Japanese room sizes. That said, the room is also advertised for up to 4 people. I am not quite sure if they add tatami beds or if you are supposed to share but regardless – this room will get way too crowded with 4 people.
The hotel also has a shared kitchen if you want to make your own meals as well as “The Poolside” where breakfast is served. It also functions as a guest lounge for cocktails until late. But do not get too excited – there is no pool anymore! Obviously, the hotel also has vending machines and laundry facilities. Downstairs is a coffee bar which unfortunately only opens at 9 am. However, you can take single coffee filters as well as all the other amenities you may need from a cart downstairs for free.
