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Rajasthan is full of colorful cities – Jaipur, the pink city, Jodphur, the blue city, Udaipur, the white city, and probably the most mysterious – Jaisalmer, the golden city.
Nicknamed such due to its sandstone buildings that seem to blend together with the golden-yellow hues from the Thar desert, Jaisalmer is a sight to behold. Its fort rises like a sandcastle into the sky making it look a bit like a mirage.
Getting to the small desert town is no easy task as it sits in the northwest corner of Rajasthan very close to the border with Pakistan. Still, I think Jaisalmer is worth a trip.
Whether you are planning an extensive Rajasthan trip or just want to see one of the most beautiful towns in India, I share all my tips in this 3-day Jaisalmer itinerary for first-time visitors.
3-Day Jaisalmer Itinerary
Table of Contents:
QUICK TIPS FOR YOUR JAISALMER ITINERARY
My favorites hotels in Jaisalmer
- Zostel – Hostel in Jaisalmer Fort with lovely service
- Hotel Suraj – Stunning heritage haveli in the fort
The best tours in Jaisalmer
Practical things
What to do in Jaisalmer
How long to stay in Jaisalmer? I would recommend you stay at least two nights in town and add one night for a desert safari. While the town is quite small, there is much to see especially if you are interested in history and architecture. And due to Jaisalmer’s somewhat far-off location, you want to make it worth your while.
Desert tour & camel safari in Jaisalmer
Most visitors come to Jaisalmer to explore the Thar desert from here. Either they are booking one of the best desert camps in Jaisalmer or planning a desert tour by jeep or camel. Compared to the Moroccan desert camps, the desert camps in Jaisalmer didn’t really appeal to me. Instead, I decided to rather book a camel safari in Jaisalmer with one night under the stars.
As it happened I arrived in Jaisalmer with a big fat cold, and the last thing I felt like was sitting on a camel in the heat and sleeping on a mat in the sand at night. Still, the trips are a once-in-a-lifetime experience and I highly recommend you book a trip to the desert with Trotters Tours & Travels. They were incredibly kind in refunding me my money and have a great reputation.
They offer various tours so even if you don’t feel like spending a whole night in the desert, you can book a camel safari for half a day to get a glimpse of the Thar.
Overnight Camel Safari – Sleeping under the Stars
Jaisalmer Fort Tour
Whether you stay in the fort for your Jaisalmer itinerary or not, a fort tour is an absolute must. You can organize it on your own and just walk up or book a tour which is a nice option if you are interested in learning a bit more about the history and architecture.
The Jaisalmer Fort was built in the 12th century and is the only living forts in India today. Thanks to its golden sandstone color that was camouflaging it against the backdrop of the golden desert, it is also called the Golden Fort.
The fort is home to the Nathmal Haweli, the Baa Ri Haveli, a museum today, a total of 7 Jain temples, a Laxminath temple, and of course the Raj Mahal Palace.
In addition, countless tiny alleys with shops and souvenirs, sometimes congested by a motorbike or a cow – the best part of any place in India.
See the Havelis of Jaisalmer
There is no shortcoming of havelis in Jaisalmer but the most famous ones are actually in town at the foot of the fort. There is the Kothari’s Patwon Ki Haveli, also known as Patwa Haveli, and the Salam Singh Ki Haveli (Moti Mahal) which are both worth a visit.
While both are absolute marvels to see, my favorite was the Nathmal Ki Haveli. It was built in the 19th century by two architect brothers. Each built one side of the haveli and standing in front of it you try to spot the subtle differences of their designs.
Gadi Sagar Tank
The Gadi Sagar Tank is a lake south of the town known for its ghats and temples. Once the city’s only source of water, it is now a favorite amongst locals and foreigners for a little photo shoot during sunrise or sunset.
I just stopped here on my way to Bada Bagh, but you can stay for longer, rent a boat to row on the lake, and buy various nicknacks at the shore.
Bada Bagh Jaisalmer
Bada Bagh is one of those places that look straight from a movie. At the same time, it flies completely under the radar until you actually get to Jaisalmer and someone will tell you about it.
It is actually a garden complex about 6 kilometers north of town but is mainly known for its royal chhatri cenotaphs made from sandstone. It isn’t a fancy UNESCO site and there are no brochures or audio guides, but just a small gate where you pay ₹ 300 (about $ 3,50) to get in.
Once inside you will walk around the cenotaphs, take pictures, and marvel at the beauty. One could argue over the lack of touristic infrastructure but I actually liked it as it was.
While most visitors come for sunset I actually came late in the afternoon. The light was perfect for taking pictures and it wasn’t too crowded yet. By the time I left, however, there were so many people you couldn’t get a decent shot in – I recommend foregoing the oh-so-magical sunset time and opting for an hour earlier with fewer people.
Coming from Jaisalmer some tours will include a visit to Bada Bagh or you can just get a tuk-tuk to take you there. The drive isn’t long and the driver will wait for you to take you back after you are done.
Where to stay in Jaisalmer
Which are the best hotels in Jaisalmer? There are a few nice options but first, you need to decide whether you want to stay in the town or in the fort. The fort is definitely a more charming option however you’ll need to remember that cars can’t drive up and rikshaws will only take you so far, and not during the day. While the walk up isn’t far, it is a bit steep at times and you will have to roll your luggage over a cobblestoned street.
And obviously, the fort is the tourist attraction in Jaisalmer so you will always have a lot of people around, more so than in other parts of town. Still, I think the fort is the best place to stay in Jaisalmer.
Zostel
Since I arrived late by train, I wanted my first hotel in Jaisalmer to organize a pick-up for me and show me where to go. This became a bit of an issue with the first hostel I had booked so I changed my reservation and booked 2 nights at Zostel, a well-known hostel chain in India.
They were incredibly accommodating and kind. They had a driver waiting for me at the train station, sign in hand, who even walked me to the hostel door once we arrived at the fort. I had booked a lovely private room which was cozy and comfortable.
Zostel also has one of the nicest terraces in the fort and guests love taking pictures here – for good reason. There is also a cafe/ restaurant on the property and they have dorm rooms in addition to the private rooms.
Hotel Suraj
Even before booking my first few nights at Zostel, I had decided to splurge for one night on Hotel Suraj, a beautiful haveli in the fort. A haveli is a traditional Indian mansion, similar to a Moroccan riad.
Suraj was built in the 16th century by a local family and has been in the family’s hands ever since. They started to run it as a homestay about 25 years ago and have four traditional rooms. You are sleeping surrounded by history but yes, there is hot water and wifi!
I spent a night at the Maharaja Suite and one night at the Maharani Suite – both are spacious and beautifully appointed. They also have not one but two stunning rooftops with the best views over the fort, the adjacent Jain temple, and the desert.
That said, this is neither a luxury hotel nor a modern refugee – all part of the charm but something to be aware of. Harshad, his brother and his family looking after you are incredibly kind and even organize free fort tours to give you a better insight into the history of the house and its neighborhood.
Where to eat in Jaisalmer Fort
Since I was staying in the fort I ate most of my meals there. I also did a food tour in Jaisalmer though, to be honest, it was more of a walk with some snacks than a dedicated food experience. Nothing compared to my food tour in Mumbai or New Delhi. Still, if you want to try some local specialties, you can check it out here.
Alternatively, these are the Jaisalmer restaurants I ate at and liked:
The Big Tree Cafe and Restaurant // Big Tree is famous for having the best terrace in the fort. They charge if you just come for pictures and don’t eat or drink something, and they do get swamped for sunset. I ate here once for breakfast and again for dinner. While my breakfast omelet was perfectly fine (I was craving eggs after I had just come from Pushkar where eggs are not allowed), dinner was a bit of a letdown.
I tried the local Gatte Ki Sabzi, a dish made with gram flour dumplings in gravy. It was quite starchy and a bit bland. I am not sure if it’s me not liking gram flour all that much but was told that this is a dish better eaten at someone’s home, freshly prepared – if you are staying at a haveli I recommend you ask if they will make you dinner.
That said, the owner is chatty and friendly, the views are stunning, and the rest of the menu is absolutely fine.
Fort Oasis Restaurant // The Fort Oasis restaurant has a stunning view over the rooftops of the fort however, you will need to walk up quite a few flights of stairs. If you have mobility issues this might not be for you.
I finally got to try Ker Sagri here, a typical Jaisalmer dish made from dried desert beans and berries. Considering that the beans looked a bit like pine-needles in sauce, I was hesitant however it was absolutely delicious. Earthy, soft yet crunchy, and very different from anything I have ever eaten before.
Sunset Palace // Sunset Palace is a cozy place for lunch or dinner, and unlike most other places they also serve wine or beer at what I would consider reasonable prices. I came once for lunch for a salad and sandwich as well as for dinner. I tried another Rajasthani dish, malai kofta, which was very good. Definitely a nice change from the usual aloo or paneer.
Tips for your Jaisalmer Itinerary
Money // As with anywhere else in India, you will pay in Indian rupees (₹). Since most visitors don’t have access to payment apps, cash is your best option in a small place like Jaisalmer. It will depend on your hotel or guesthouse if they also accept cards but it might be prudent to ask beforehand.
There are no ATMs in the fort but in the city, however, they are few and far.
Note that some cafes in the fort will charge you if you just walk in to take pictures.
Wifi // I found the wifi throughout my stay in Jaisalmer very good even when staying in the historic Suraj Haveli.
For all other times, I used my Indian SIM card for data. Since it is a bit of a mission to get a local SIM card in India, I recommend you get an eSIM from Airalo beforehand.
Buy an Airalo eSIM and get 12% off with code MBE or by using this link
When is the best time to visit Jaisalmer? Since Jaisalmer is in the desert it is best to visit in the winter months from October to March. And don’t be scared – winter can still see high temperatures but it won’t be scorching hot. Perfect for exploring the town and going on a desert safari. Though I dare say, do pack a warm jersey if you are sleeping in the desert under the stars.
How to get to Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is next to the Thar Desert in Rajasthan in the west of India not far from the Pakistan border. It’s less than 800 kilometers from Delhi and over 1000 kilometers from Mumbai. While it is very accessible thanks to a train station and an airport, it is far. If you are planning a whole Rajasthan itinerary, I’d only recommend going to Jaisalmer if you are very keen to see the desert.
The easiest way is to fly to the airport in Jaisalmer (JSA). However, it is a tiny military airport so there aren’t a lot of flights. But you can definitely get there from Delhi or Mumbai and it will take less than 2 hours with IndiGo.
If you are flying from Jaisalmer keep in mind that the airport only has a couple of check-in counters, security, and one waiting area with a small coffee stand. It is also strictly forbidden to take pictures (they even mention it on the plane) due to it being a military base.
Alternatively, you can take the train or bus from Delhi to Jaisalmer or from many other destinations. Both bus and train will take over 18 hours from Delhi. I didn’t go quite as far but my train ride from Ajmer to Jaisalmer (I came from the Pushkar Camel Fair) was 11 hours. In hindsight, it might have been wise to make a stop in Jodphur for a night or two.
Regardless, I recommend you take the train, not the bus. This way you can at least walk around a bit, get food delivered or even stretch out. I booked a first-class ticket which was very affordable. While first class is really not very fancy on Indian trains (it ain’t the Maharajas Express after all), I was grateful to have a cabin with two berths for myself. It was nice and quiet at least and the train was only delayed by 45 minutes – not bad considering it had already done 24 hours before I boarded.
Read more: Train travel in India & how to book your tickets
The airport is about 14 kilometers and the train station is about a kilometer from the foot of the Jaisalmer Fort. Since my train was arriving late at night I had asked Zostel to organize an auto rickshaw pick-up for me and my driver waited at the station with a name sign for me.
On my way to the airport, I also took an auto rickshaw that my hotel had organized.
How to get around in Jaisalmer
Unlike many other Indian cities, there is no Uber or Ola in Jaisalmer, it is a really small town after all. You can walk to most places or take an auto rickshaw. I assume that tourists may get ripped off from time to time but I found prices so low in general that I wasn’t too worried.
Still, I usually asked my hotel to arrange for a driver and set the price beforehand.
An important thing to note: the Jaisalmer Fort is a car-free zone. Auto rikshaws can only go to the Dusherra Chowk courtyard by the museum but not all day long. Chances are you will need to walk down and get your transport by the fort parking. Usually, your hotel will help you sort this out.
