The Ultimate Guide to Train Travel in India.

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Train travel in India – feared, fabled, the holy grail, and a rite of passage. You cannot travel to India and not take a train. Well, you can, in fact, I have done it more than once but I actually still believe it is part of the experience and makes for a well-rounded India journey. 

My experience with train travel in India was limited to one very luxurious trip with the Maharajas Express until a few years ago. Unfortunately, this experience did not fall in the ‘very affordable’ category and is definitely not part of the everyday traveler’s journey or budget. 

During my most recent trips, I wanted to conquer the art of train travel in India. Apparently, even the ticketing process would be arduous and to be honest, Lion was still fresh on my mind and those trains did not look comfortable. But there was something in me craving an adventure and also telling myself that it surely couldn’t be that hard. Turns out it really wasn’t and I spent 2 weeks zigzagging my way through Rajasthan by train, not once but twice.

What did I learn and how does train travel in India work? All the answers in this post. 

The ins & outs of train travel in India

Why travel by train in India? 

First of all, it is hard to avoid traveling by train in India. Trains are the transport mode no. 1 and the Indian Railway network is the third biggest in the world. Train travel in India ranges from dirt cheap to very affordable. That said, with a tourist budget you can probably also afford a personal driver for a few days but still, it won’t be as cheap as taking the train. 

I also think trains are more comfortable especially when you are covering a long distance overnight. And unlike German trains, Indian trains are a lot more punctual than you would think. 

Ultimately I think train travel in India is part of the culture and thus should be part of your experience when coming to India. If only to master the art of peeing on a moving train or sharing a meal with a local family you just met. 

How to book a ticket for a train in India?

First things first: you will need a train ticket in India before you board. If you don’t mind winging it you can get it at the station but – and I cannot stress this enough – Indian train tickets sell out fast and far in advance. So chances are you won’t get one at the station on short notice. There are also plenty of little travel agencies all around where you can get your ticket from. 

Personally, I prefer buying it online because I like to plan and suss out all the options and best trains, and compare prices… you get my drift. Even if you are not as much of a planner as I am, getting your tickets online is ideal because you can already sort out your travel arrangements before you even arrive in India. 

As a foreigner you currently have 2 options to buy your train ticket online: via 12go or on the website of the IRCTC (Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation Ltd.). I tried both and they each have their advantages and disadvantages, I will walk you through the process.

Booking a train ticket with IRCTC

The website of the IRCTC is a little bit infamous as it can be a bit confusing for first-timers. But honestly, once you have your account and know how things run, it is not so bad. 

To book tickets you will need to create an account and verify your phone number and your email address. In order to do that as a foreigner you will need to use your credit card to pay a small amount (I think it was 110 ₹ so less than $1,50 ) for the verification. Once this is done you can start booking your tickets. I had to attempt this a couple of times so don’t be dismayed if it doesn’t immediately work.

Afterward, the system is pretty straightforward – put in your departure station and where you want to go, date, how many people traveling, and if you want to use a specific quota (quotas are explained below). Once you have hit ‘search’ you will get your results and you can still narrow it down from here. For example you can enter a specific departure time, and specific train types as well as narrow down your stations. This can be useful if you are traveling to or from big cities like Delhi that will have more than one station.

Indian train stations:

This will be important – when you are searching for trains departing from Delhi for example, you will be shown all the Delhi stations. There are quite a few. Depending on where you stay, this may add significant travel time to your trip, not only on the train but also in the city when heading to the station. It can pay off to consult a map and see which station is actually closest to you. At the same time, a bit of flexibility is good as you will obviously have a lot more train choices when considering ALL stations.

Once you have found the train you want you select the class and afterward you can book your ticket if the class you want is still available for your travel date. These tickets will show AVL for available. During the next step, you will put in your details including your passport number, and choose the seat/bunk you would like. Then you are ready to pay for your ticket and yes, you can just use your international credit card. 

What happens if no tickets are available for your preferred train? Then you have the option to go for a RAC ticket or get on the waitlist. RAC stands for Reservation Against Cancellation. With this ticket, you can definitely get on the train but won’t have an assigned seat yet. These tickets basically rely on the fact that there will always be last-minute cancellations or no-shows. 

In the worst-case scenario, you can opt for a waitlisted ticket. This will show a number like WL10/WL5. The first number tells you the original length of the waitlist, and the second number your current spot so this one will change. Note that you can only travel if your waitlisted ticket either changes to RAC or CNF for confirmed. 

Booking a train ticket via 12go

12go is my favorite platform to book transport tickets in Asia. They are currently the only third-party platform that offers Indian train tickets. 

There are a few things to keep in mind when you book your Indian train ticket with 12go. First up: they only show you a select number of trains and only tickets that are still available. This is great if you don’t want to worry about RAC, WL or quotas. On the other hand it also limits your choices quite a bit, which can make things tricky especially if you are late with your booking. 

A definite plus are the payment options on 12go – you can easily pay with your credit card without a lenghty verification process but also use PayPal or Google Pay. But of course, you will have to pay a fee for the service, which especially for PayPal is rather steep.

And, a little downside in my books – when you book with 12go you can’t choose your preferred seat/bunk yourself. 

As you can see both websites have their pros and cons, just try them both and see which one you prefer. 

After you’ve made a booking with either platform you will get your e-ticket. On the IRCTC site, you will get it instantly while it can take up to 24 hours with 12go. This ticket has all your information incl. the all-important PNR. This is the passenger name record and includes your name and details, train number, wagon, and seat. 

Seat Reservations & How do I find my seat

One of the most common questions: do I have a seat reservation when I get a ticket for a train in India? This question usually comes from a German as we are used to paying almost 5 Euro extra if we want a seat reservation. 

The good news is – yes, you will get a reserved seat with your train ticket in India unless you book 2GN class. If you have seen people hanging off trains in India and that scared you, fear not – this is not the norm and in most coaches, you will need a seat reservation and people adhere to them. 

If you book your ticket with 12go you will get your seat assigned. If you book your ticket through IRCTC you can choose where you want to sit. I like this option better because especially for the sleeper train I had specific ideas about where I wanted to sleep for safety and privacy reasons. 

Once you have your ticket you will see it mentioning your PNR as well as the train name and number, the status of your ticket (it should say CNF), and something like A1/88 – this means your coach number is A1 and your seat number is 88. 

Download the Ixigo App and put in your PNR to check the status of your train (great to confirm whether it is on time or not) and to see the order of the coaches. Click on your coach in the app and you can see the seat figuration and find your seat. 

This chart is useful as you will already get an idea of where approximately your coach will be once the train arrives at the platform. On the platform you will see displays switching from the train number to the coach number all along. This way you will know where your coach will be when the train arrives and you can wait there. 

Note: If you have booked a first-class ticket you will not know your coach or your seat number until a few hours prior. I was told they put up charts at the station however I didn’t even need to check there as the Ixigo app showed my seat a few hours before departure. Alternatively you can send a message with your PNR to 139 on your phone and it will tell you the seat when the chart is ready. 

How long to book your Indian train ticket in advance? 

Indian trains are very popular and they sell out quickly. For most trains, ticket bookings open 120 days in advance. Chances are you may not be able to book your ticket quite as early but you also shouldn’t wait too long especially during holidays or in high season. 

If you are cutting it tight you can always use the Indian train quota. What’s that, you ask? Well, basically Indian train tickets are sorted by categories, so-called quotas. Not everyone can buy from every quota. 

The main one is the GN – general quota. Those are the regular tickets that everyone can buy. As a tourist, you can also use the tourist quota. This is a small number of tickets for certain trains which can only be bought by tourists. You will need to have a valid international passport for buying those tickets. This can be a lifesaver if you are too late with buying a regular ticket but also comes with a caveat: tourist quota tickets are 1,5 x as much as normal tickets. 

By the way: as a tourist you can but don’t have to use the tourist quota. I bought all my tickets from the general quota. While I did get an error message once saying I needed to buy a tourist ticket after entering my passport information that was indeed an error – I simply tried again in a different browser and it worked. 

There is also a quota for women compartments, people with disabilities, and the infamous taktal. This can be helpful if you are super late with booking your tickets as this quota is only released a day before the departure of the train. However, these tickets also cost more, and sometimes the price is even increased based on demand. 

Classes of the Indian Railway

I traveled with a few different classes so I could report back to you. I did not, however, travel in the general class or sleeper class. I was told that these are fine for a shorter trip but since all my journeys were 5+ hours and I was traveling in Rajasthan during summer I didn’t want to be without aircon. 

You will see the price differences in the various classes with first class being the most expensive one, often costing double. But generally train travel in India is super cheap, especially when compared to trains in Germany (thanks, Deutsche Bahn). 

AC3 / 3A / 3E

This one is third-tier with aircon and at least for a day trip quite comfortable. When you travel overnight this turns into 3 bunks on top of each other – too little space for my liking. But during the day will share a bench between 3 travelers with 2 benches across and another one on the other side of the aisle. Chances are that some travelers will hop on the top bunk which means even more space for you. 

Just be aware that you won’t have an individual seat. I didn’t mind but I realized that Indians (or at least the ones I traveled with) have no problem extending their limbs beyond their allocated space (well, allocated in my German mind) and you may end up playing footsie with some. If you can’t fight them, join them… 

You will also get a sheet and a pillow even for your day trip if you like. I was told that sheets on Indian trains all get boiled and are thus quite clean and they are being handed out in a fresh paper package. 

CC

CC stands for chair class the one that probably reminded me most of German regional trains. You will usually have 3+2 chairs per row and the seat in front of you has a little tray table. There are some rows where chairs face each other and you have a bigger table in the middle. And the seats will even recline a bit!

I thought this was by far the most comfortable class for the money I paid but I also got lucky (or tourist privilege, I am not sure) and got allocated a seat at a big table. 

EC 

EC stands for executive chair class and is the slightly fancier version of CC. You will get a 2+2 seat combo here and sometimes a meal and a drink are included in the price. You can choose if you are a vegetarian and the meal service was very organized – you even get a menu on your tray listing all the items you are having, and the service staff makes sure nothing is missing. Is it safe to eat? I’d say, yes. I have had plenty of train chai by now and never had an issue though I have not read extensive studies on the matter either.

I would definitely recommend CC or EC for a longer trip during the daytime. As far as I know, you won’t find both, CC and EC, on one train so you won’t have a choice but both are reasonably comfortable. They are nicer for a day trip than AC3 or AC2 as you will get a proper seat and won’t have to share a bench. 

AC2 / 2A

I chose this second tier for my overnight trip from Jodphur to Delhi and I honestly thought it was the perfect choice. Unlike in first class, you are not alone in a compartment with a stranger but you are also not as cramped as in AC3. In AC2 there are only 2 bunks on top of each other in an open compartment. So you have 4 people facing each other on one side and 2 across the aisle.

I chose the aisle top bunk for safety and it was the perfect choice. I put my backpack underneath the bottom bunk and my hand luggage in my little nest, and while it was snug it was actually pretty comfortable too. You also get fresh sheets, a blanket, and a pillow and unlike AC3 you even have a curtain for more privacy. My top bunk also had a reading light and each bed/seat has its own outlet. 

That said, anyone with mobility issues is better off getting the bottom bunk especially for a day time trip – these top bunks are somewhat hard to climb.

AC1 / 1A

I splurged on one first-class ticket twice to experience it and also to be as comfortable as possible on a long trip in the middle of the day. I expected it to be hot as hell and the least amount of people around me as possible for this sounded like a good idea at the time of booking. 

A day before my trip monsoon had started early so it was not hot but very wet instead. The train was running over an hour late, which I had luckily caught on the app so my wait at the train station in Ajmer wasn’t too long. 

The first class has individual compartments with either 2 or 4 berths. To put it nicely – it ain’t the Maharaja’s Express. For some odd reasons, the first class seemed grimier than the rest however, I had a compartment to myself each time. And if you are on a train for 11 hours during the day (yes, I am that crazy), you will be very grateful for some peace and quiet.

Just move any used sheets, sanitize your hands, and settle in the window seat. Usually someone will bring you fresh sheets and the conductor may even know your name.

All in all, I think it depends on the situation whether first class is worth it or not. It doesn’t seem cleaner or more comfortable than the rest, and personally, for an overnight trip, I prefer being in a shared compartment for safety reasons. That said, if you want a little less noise and more privacy, or traveling with your partner or friend it is definitely the way to go. And the prices are still so reasonable!

If you are booking any AC compartment make sure to pack some warmer clothes – I was freezing twice, especially during my overnight trip, so bring layers.

SL 

This sleeper class is similar to AC3 minus a lot of amenities. If you want a local, authentic experience, go for it but you will have to make do without aircon, pillows, and sheets.

2S & GN

This is the official second class on Indian trains. 2S looked perfectly fine to me but again you will have to manage without aircon and open windows – that can be a hit or a miss but is usually fine for a shorter trip during the day. In 2S you will have a reserved seat unlike in GN – this general compartment is probably what you know from the movies. Since there are no reserved seats these are often crowded and not something I would recommend. 

General safety & Tips for women traveling by train in India

The first time I came to India to see the Golden Triangle I was too scared to take the train. Instead, I asked my friend to organize a private driver for me, something that was still super affordable. Then came my trip with the Maharajas Express, obviously a very different kind of train experience than your average journey. But to be honest, it got me excited about train travel in India. 

Luckily, I had no issues whatsoever and everyone was really kind. From the driver who walked me to the platform to the young boy and his grandmother who wanted to share their food with me, people were nothing but helpful and lovely when traveling by train in India. 

Still, I understand that shit can happen and it is not always rainbows and roses. Here are some tips for everyone but women in particular when taking a train in India. 

Travel light

My number 1 tip for anyone traveling by train in India: travel light. I left my big suitcase at my friend’s house in Delhi so I had one big backpack and one smaller backpack I wore in front of me. Light enough to get on and off the train. My big backpack was squishy enough to fit under the seats. 

I also took a small shoulder purse with all my valuables to take to the loo. I would advise you to get a good lock for your luggage. I did not only not have one but my backpack also had a giant hole so a lock would’ve been useless. I got lucky even on my overnight trip but wouldn’t risk it again. My small backpack slept almost literally in my arms. 

Women’s seat

While some trains do have women’s only coaches I never bothered to look for those. I simply booked my seat in an aircon class and called it a day. You do specify gender when booking and apparently, the IRCTC will try to seat you next to other women if you are traveling alone. I was always seated amongst a mix of people. But if you are really nervous try to find a women’s compartment though I guess this will severly limit your options when searching for a train. 

Overnight travel

My biggest concern was my overnight trip from Jodphur to Delhi. I made sure to depart and arrive at a decent time and discussed with my Indian friend what class would be best to book. I decided on AC2 and chose a top bunk. While I could have gone for AC1 the idea of being stuck in a separate compartment with one or more strangers at night did not sit right with me. I prefered sleeping in an open compartment – safety in numbers.

And while I would have preferred the bottom bunk after my overnight train in Thailand because they are easier to get into and you have a window, I decided on the top bunk as it feels a bit safer. 

Toilets 

The less we say about the toilets on the train the better. Then again it was only just as bad as I imagined. There is usually a sqat and a western style toilet in each coach. While the squat toilets are definitely the more hygenic, I understand the creature comfort of a toilet you can sit on – espically on a moving train squatting is an art form. Whichever one you choose bring your own toilet paper and copious amounts of handsanatizer. You may need to hold your breath too – I am sorry!

Wear something not too flowy or pants that are too wide-legged as you will need to put all this fabric somewhere and you probably not want it on the floor. Do not under any circumstances wear a onsie! Yes, they are cute and you look awesome but now you will have to deal with so much extra fabric around your legs and you are also topless. 

Are you on your period? To be honest, I would avoid a trip long enough that you will need to empty your cup or change your tampon. While most train toilets have a small sink, it is really not the place you want to deal with this. 

Is there wifi on trains in India? 

No, they are not quite as fancy and there is no wifi on trains in India. However, I found that making a hotspot with my phone and using my 4G/5G data worked surprising well most of the time.

Are there charging points in the trains? 

Yes, there are charging points, at least in the AC3, AC2, CC, and AC1 class that I was traveling with. However, there is not a charging point for each seat available so you may have to take turns with your fellow travelers. 

If you have a very long trip ahead of you I recommend you pack a power bank for your phone. 

Are Indian trains on time? 

Honestly, I was impressed with how punctual the majority of my trains were. One was delayed by a total of 2 hours after the area was hit by heavy rains and flooding so that seemed like a good enough reason. 

To make sure you know if your train is either departing or arriving late you can check the Ixigo App which is not 100% reliable but pretty good. In general, it seems similar to flights: the earlier you depart the better your chances are for no delays building up over the course of the day. 

The Ixigo App is a really good one as you can already see if the train you will take, is already delayed (Indian trains often cover huge distances). However, don’t count on it too much – chances are if there is a delay a few hours before arrival, the train may still catch up. I almost missed a train in Jaipur once that ended up not being as delayed as I thought it would be.

At the train station

To be honest, the only moments when I didn’t like traveling alone was at the train stations. I never had an actual problem but unfortunately, many people sleep on the platforms and beg, and I felt quite uncomfortable at times. I know first-world problems but still…

I had two early morning trains departing at 6 am. I chose them because it wasn’t too hot yet early in the morning and I would have some more time to explore once I arrived. That said, I recommend you only take an early train from a station you have already been to. This way you will at least know your way around a little and not stand at the station like a deer in headlights. I left early from Jaipur and from Udaipur however, I had already seen both stations upon arrival and knew where to go. 

Also, don’t come too early so you don’t end up waiting too long. If your station is the first one chances are your train will arrive early too and you can already get on. When in doubt ask the station master for help!

In some cities auto and taxi drivers can get quite annoying once you exit the train station. In fact, in Jaipur, a driver started hassling me while I was still on the platform and approached me five times until I almost put my hand in his face to tell him off. If your accommodation provides this service ask them to organize a driver for you. Otherwise, check with them beforehand how much you should pay for an auto from the train station. Ultimately you will have to say yes to one of them and this way you will at least know a reasonable price. 

Beware of the moving train!

I was very surprised to see that open doors are quite normal for Indian trains when moving. For reasons unknown, because unlike Sri Lanka, no people are hanging out the doors (at least not in the coaches with reserved seats). And if a door isn’t open yet chances are a traveler will open it long before the train comes to a stop in the station. 

I stood back and was in awe the first few times I saw this happen. During my last journey, it was I who opened the door long before the station, feeling very daring and adventurous. Then my friend Joe brought me back to earth and told me to be careful – apparently, there are quite a few pickpockets who will approach slowly driving trains and unsuspecting travelers standing in the door to snatch their bags. 

Can I buy food on the train? 

Yes, you can buy food on a train in India! However, there is no designated dining car as such. Some fancy tickets will include a meal service though. In most trains, vendors will walk through who sell chai, bottled water, chocolate bars, chips, or prepackaged meals like biryani and even mini Domino’s pizza. You won’t really know your options before but you definitely won’t go hungry either. Prices are totally okay – a small cup of chai is 10 rupees and a pizza is 150 rupees. 

During longer stops in a specific station, vendors from this station will also get on to sell you food and snacks. During my trip to Pushkar, I couldn’t resist and got some samoosas. I think his probably not-so-clean fingers on my food should have been a giveaway but this samoosa did not sit well with me for the rest of the day. However, the dishes you buy on the train are usually neatly packed and looked very hygienic. 

The greatest invention and option to eat on a train in India is to pre-order your meal. There are a few apps and websites for this but I recommend the IRCTC Catering App. All you need to do is put in your PNR and the app will show you the route you are traveling and stops along the way where you can order food. Each stop usually has a few restaurant options. Pick a restaurant and order the food you would like. Depending on the restaurant you will either pay cash on delivery or can pre-pay with your credit card. Then you just need to get on your train, sit back, and wait for the magic to unfold. 

And honestly, it is pure magic to me how it all works out. Get a local SIM card so the delivery guy can contact you if needed. The restaurant has your seat number through your PNR so they bring the food straight to your place. Once you arrive at the station you ordered from someone will hop on the train and bring you your meal. If you still have to pay make sure to have small change. 

I ordered a few times and the food was always yummy and hot, even when my train was delayed. I can highly recommend this service especially if you are a somewhat picky eater or don’t want to gamble with train samoosas. 

In the mood for a train trip through India now? Give it a go and let me know if you have any questions! 

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