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Upon my first trip to Sri Lanka, I was doing research. Someone asked in a travel advice group on Facebook: “What to do in Colombo?” The overwhelming majority of people told the OP: “Nothing! Get out as quickly as you can.”
Once I arrived, I quickly realized that I shared this opinion. While I immediately fell in love with Sri Lanka overall, the nights I had to spend in Colombo were business-related and luckily few and far between. I always felt a bit bad about my feelings towards Colombo, though – I thought I should like the capital of a country I love so much and not treat it like an ugly stepsister.
With each visit, I became more determined to change my attitude. And as the city will be your gateway to Sri Lanka, you may as well see what it has to offer, even if you just add an extra night.
So, how to plan a Colombo itinerary? Read on for my tips on where to stay, what to do, and of course, what to eat in Colombo.
Colombo & I – It’s complicated
I hate not liking places. It makes me feel like a condescending, unappreciative tourist who will inevitably offend someone with her opinion. I also don’t like offending people. But truth to be told, Colombo is a little hard to love, and I find it even harder to put my finger on why. Especially because I truly adore the rest of Sri Lanka.
At a first look, Colombo is just another city in Asia. Small compared to other capitals, with a population of just 650,000 and the broader metropolis of 5.6 million. Looking again, I find Colombo quite hard to grasp; I don’t love it and I don’t hate it, which makes our relationship just complicated.
To be honest, I find it lacking (definitely going to offend someone now). It is not wonderfully chaotic as Delhi, Mumbai, or Hanoi, not glitzy enough like Kuala Lumpur or Singapore, and not pretty enough like Cape Town. And of course, it ain’t Bangkok. It sits somewhere in-between with nothing really wrong, but nothing really appealing either.
Apparently, I am not the only one who feels this way. Still, I am determined to crack Colombo somehow and make it mine. And with yet, another visit I am one step closer. If only to encourage you to plan a tiny Colombo itinerary too, before heading off to see the rest of Sri Lanka.
How to plan your Colombo itinerary
What to see in Colombo
If you have never been to Colombo, I recommend you start with a city tour. You can either book a curated walk with a company like Ayu in the Wild or book a tour with a tuk-tuk and a guide. I would always recommend booking online so you can read reviews before and also find a tour that is just right for you.
Especially the Fort area and Pettah are perfect for a stroll down memory lane. Its fascinating history makes for an enticing mix of cultures. Some of the best places to visit in Colombo, Sri Lanka, include the Pettah Market, the beautiful Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, the old Lighthouse/Clocktower, and the Viharamaha Devi Park.
When you are looking for things to do in Colombo, don’t forget to stroll along the Galle Face Green, an urban park right by the ocean. It comes with a sporty past of horse racing, golf, and, of course, this being Sri Lanka, cricket. Today it is perfect for a stroll, flying a kite, and getting some typical Sri Lankan snacks.
If you want a good overview of the city, head to the newish Lotus Tower. Tickets are US$20 to go up, where you will get uninterrupted views over Colombo and the ocean. Personally, I also like the view of it from the ground, especially at night, as the tower lights up.
Where to eat in Colombo
While I absolutely adore Sri Lankan food, Colombo is not a foodie destination as such. You won’t find street food here, nor is there such a thing as Sri Lankan fine dining. One of the best Colombo restaurants is still Ministry of Crab, which I consider overpriced and only semi-exciting. Sure, crab is nice, but with the prices they charge, you may as well eat it in Singapore.
I do like Park Street Mews, home to a few different restaurants like AQUA Pizza, Chambers, and Uncle’s (all of them mini-chains that you can find in the south, too). Especially the latter is a great option for elevated Sri Lankan classics and awesome cocktails – a banana negroni is a must!
I also had dinner at the 1864 Limited Edition fine dining restaurant of the Galle Face Hotel, just because I was too lazy to go out for food. It was a nice detour from Sri Lankan curry, and with an average of $10 per main not too expensive.
The Galle Face One Mall has a really nice food court in the basement – a great option for a quick lunch while you are out shopping.
But where to eat authentic food in Colombo? Thanks to not one, not two, but three colonizers leaving their traces, Sri Lanka’s cuisine has also become a literal melting pot. I recommend you book this food tour with Nim, who will take you to some great Sri Lankan restaurants in Colombo and introduce you to the city’s food scene.
You will learn about all the spices important for Sri Lankan cooking, what makes a balanced curry, and why the Sri Lankan tea is far superior to Indian chai (he said it, not me, so don’t come for me). On your tour, you will eat some Sri Lankan classics like kottu and the famous 7-veggie curry, have a picnic in the park, and do a proper tea tasting.
Make sure to come hungry – while this isn’t a regular street food tour in Colombo, you will learn a lot and eat like a queen.
Best hotels in Colombo, Sri Lanka
To be very honest, I always a hard time finding nice hotels in Colombo. Years ago, I stayed at an Airbnb in a residential neighborhood that felt like a home away from home, but it has long-term tenants now. And to be honest, if you only have a few nights, you might want to be a bit more central.
There is no shortage of five-star hotels in Colombo, Sri Lanka; however, most of them are a bit old-fashioned and dusty. There are no good choices for modern design hotels and very few boutique guesthouses, and those available come with a rather steep price tag.
However, I found a couple that I can wholeheartedly recommend, depending on your budget.
Sayura House
This beautiful boutique guesthouse is in Wellawatte, a bit outside the city center. However, you can easily get a tuk-tuk from here, and it is truly lovely. Everything is open and airy, full of traditional Sri Lankan furniture and artwork. They have dogs, super nice staff, and the 12 rooms come with everything you may need – including refillable glass bottles with drinking water.
They also have a nice rooftop with a view over the ocean and a delicious poke bowl restaurant on-site if you are over hoppers.
- Book Sayura House via Booking.com / Agoda
Galle Face Hotel
Looking for the best hotel in Colombo, Sri Lanka? For many, that still is the Galle Face Hotel. To be fair, it is as old-fashioned as it gets, and if you are not into colonial charm and porters in white-liveried uniforms, this might not be the place for you. However, the location is one of a kind – you are right by the ocean next to the Galle Face Green, and they have a stunning pool.
Prices are definitely on the higher end, but I realized that you can sometimes find good deals on Booking.com. Just skip their airport transfer as this is ridiculously overpriced and rather invest in another cocktail at the Traveller’s Bar. This bar used to have an international and somewhat star-studded clientele, if the menu is to be believed. And in general, prices for cocktails and food are comparatively low.
- Book Galle Face Hotel via Booking.com / Agoda
Your Colombo Itinerary – General tips
Is Colombo safe?
I think this question is on many travelers’ minds. For once, it was only in 2009 when the Sri Lankan civil war ended, and it was 2019 when the Sri Lanka Easter bombings happened. Both these dates were not that long ago, and I understand why travelers might be nervous.
With that, I won’t speak in absolutes but just from my experience. I have always felt safe in Colombo as well as in the rest of Sri Lanka. In most big hotels and shopping malls, you will still need to go through extensive security checks, and cars and tuk-tuks are checked both in hotels and at the airport.
I generally avoid big crowds like demonstrations and festivals; however, not just in Sri Lanka but everywhere. I am not much of a crowd-pleaser…
Can you visit Colombo as a solo female traveler? Yes, you can! Especially compared to some Indian cities, I always felt very at ease here. I do dress a bit more conservatively, though, and have invented a fake husband or two who is waiting at my hotel. I don’t think it is necessary, but sometimes I don’t like to overexplain.
To get around, I only take Uber or PickMe and definitely ignore the tuk-tuk drivers on the roadside. And of course, I follow the basics when solo traveling in Sri Lanka: I keep my valuables at home, I am not overtly nice to men in general, and I don’t walk around alone after dark.
Getting around Colombo
Sure, you can use a regular cab service in Colombo; however, I recommend you download both Uber and the Sri Lankan app PickMe. They offer both tuk-tuks as well as cars and are inexpensive and convenient.
I recommend you set one app to ‘cash payment’ as this makes it a bit easier to get a driver who prefers cash over credit card payments. Once you get in your vehicle, you will need to give the driver a pin code to confirm that you are in the right car and start your trip.
Do ignore the tuk-tuk drivers who try to hustle customers from the roadside.
There are buses; however, the system seems daunting – since tuk-tuks are so cheap, I have never bothered.
Airport in Colombo, Sri Lanka
The airport in Colombo is the Bandaranaike International Airport, about 35 km south of the city center. Without traffic, it takes about 45 minutes to get there. I found it to be a bit cluttered, but the airport has everything you may need, and if you get your Sri Lankan ETA beforehand (use this official website), you might be through immigration within 30 seconds (my personal record!).
In the arrival hall, you will find ATMs to draw cash and counters to buy a local SIM card. If you want to exchange money, don’t do it here, as the exchange rate is usually quite bad at any airport. For those coming from the US, you can also use US dollars in hotels or more high-end restaurants.
While wifi in most Colombo hotels is decent, I’d still buy a local SIM card. You can easily do so at the airport – you can get 50GB for about $7. If you want to be prepared, you can buy an eSIM before your trip even starts.
To get from the airport to your hotel, you can simply book an Uber or PickMe. They have designated pick-up points at the airport.
If you have a very late arrival or early morning departure, I recommend spending the night at Airport Green Olive Villa. It is a cute guesthouse not far and they include airport transfer in the booking.
Alternatively, I would book a pick up with Welcome Pickups or with Real Lanka Holidays. They are a bit pricier than Uber, but very reliable, especially if you need to get to the airport very early. You can also book them for longer distances, like to Sigiriya or Galle – they are on 12go and always offer the best prices.
Colombo train station
The main railway station in Sri Lanka is the Colombo Fort Station. From here, you can catch a train to Sigiriya, Jaffna, or the south coast.
If you want to book a train from Colombo to Galle, Sri Lanka, or anywhere else, I recommend using 12go. I once tried the website of Sri Lankan Railways, and while they charged my credit card, I never got my ticket. This wasn’t a big deal as train tickets are so cheap in Sri Lanka, but still.
Once you book with 12go, you will need to take your confirmation to this window at Colombo Fort station to exchange it for your boarding pass:
Alternatively, you can also get your ticket at the station directly; however, they sell out quickly – especially if you are looking for a seat reservation.
Best time to visit Colombo, Sri Lanka
Regardless of when you visit Sri Lanka, you will need to go through Sri Lanka. However, if I had to pick a season, it would be after October. You will find pleasant and drier conditions until May, before the monsoon starts.
Keep in mind, though, that temperatures still climb to 30 °C with a bit of humidity. And while you can catch plenty of sunshine during the rainy season, the humidity will be through the roof.
Weather aside, like many countries, prices soar during the Christmas Holidays and New Year’s Eve in Sri Lanka.
More Sri Lanka trips:
- WHERE TO SEE ELEPHANTS IN SRI LANKA.
- A FOODIE’S GUIDE TO GALLE, SRI LANKA.
- THE INS & OUTS OF AN AYURVEDA RETREAT IN SRI LANKA.
- ON THE ROAD WITH AYU IN THE WILD – AUTHENTIC SRI LANKA TOURS.
2 comments
You know what, I think your photos make this look like a brilliant city to explore! I love underdogs and think particularly in growing destinations like Sri Lanka, there must be hidden gems worth exploring off the beaten track!
Agreed, I like an underdog too and am happy that I had someone show me a different side to Colombo. Definitely worth exploring!