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Chiang Mai and I have a complicated history. I visited once during a group trip but don’t remember a thing except for the amazing tempura mushrooms our host made. Then I came back with an old friend only to get sick, having to cancel my trip to the Elephant Nature Park. It almost spoilt Pad Thai forever for me and as someone who usually has an iron stomach, it didn’t bode well for my image of Chiang Mai.
After this, my ex-boyfriend moved to Chiang Mai only to find the love of his life three weeks after we broke up. Needless to say, this put the city firmly off-limits for me and when people asked me – is Chiang Mai worth visiting – I just shrugged.
This all changed this year when I realized that two friends of mine now live in Chiang Mai and said ex-boyfriend had long moved on. I thought this the perfect opportunity to finally visit, play tourist, and see what the city was really about.
I am happy to tell you that was not disappointed and I doubt it will be my last visit. In fact, you could even say I have a little crush on Chiang Mai, and here is why…
My Chiang Mai Travel Itinerary
Table of Contents
How many days in Chiang Mai? Chiang Mai is so liveable and loveable, that I could imagine staying here for longer. However, if you are working within regular holiday times I recommend you stay at least 5 days and maybe add a few days in Chiang Rai or Pai.
When is the best time to visit Chiang Mai?
Since I was already in Thailand I decided to brave the crowds and visit Chiang Mai during Loy Krathong and Yi Peng in November 2023. While Loy Krathong is celebrated all over Thailand, Yi Peng is unique to Chiang Mai – you may have seen the images and videos of hundreds and thousands of lanterns flying in the dark sky.
I arrived earlier to stay with my friend outside of town, moving closer to the action for the festivals. If you decide to come over Loy Krathong book far in advance as things sell out quickly and be prepared for lines at the airport.
Otherwise, November and the following months are the best season to visit Chiang Mai. The weather is warm and balmy but not humid, it reminded me of European summer. It is also the perfect time to go hiking and adventuring.
Afterwards, in March the burning season in Chiang Mai starts. Farmers in the area are burning their fields to prepare them for the new crops and the air quality decreases rapidly. A thick haze usually lies over the city and rising temperatures on top of that, turn Chiang Mai into a furnace. Avoid!!
May or June brings the rainy season that lasts until October. As anywhere this can mean a light shower in the afternoon or nonstop downpour for days. A big advantage though is definitely fewer crowds and lower prices.
How to get to Chiang Mai & how to get around?
Chiang Mai has its own international airport (CNX) that is not far from town. You can get flights to Chiang Mai from other Asian destinations and of course many Thai airports. There are inexpensive connections with Air Asia, Nok, and Bangkok Airways that you can compare and book on 12Go.
Alternatively, you can take the bus or the train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. In fact, there is a popular night train covering that route. This option is cheap, you don’t lose a day in transit and you save on hotel costs for a night.
Once you are in Chiang Mai you can use the public songthaews to get around cheaply. To be honest, I didn’t try them but they are generally considered safe and are probably the least expensive option save walking to get from A to B. Just ask your accommodation for help figuring out their routes.
Alternatively, you can rent a scooter in Chiang Mai. Most hostels and homestays function as a motorbike rental in Chiang Mai as well and you can get a bike starting at 250 baht per day (ca. $7). Make sure to get a decent helmet!
I mainly used Grab which is readily available in Chiang Mai. For shorter distances, I opted for a motorbike Grab though some had an issue with the helmets they provided. Compared to Bali they were quite skimpy and old. For longer distances, I would just order a Grab car.
Another authentic way though a more expensive to get around is a tuk-tuk. They charge tourist prices but it can be a lot of fun, at least for a short distance.
Where to stay in Chiang Mai
If you are coming for the Lantern Festival in November, make sure to book your Chiang Mai hotel way in advance. I did not and was stuck with some unexciting leftovers. I settled on Like Home in the end which was not really charming but had a nice vibe thanks to lovely owner Nuy. They have dorm rooms and individual rooms which were nothing to write home about but clean with good wifi and aircon. She also includes free breakfast and the location is just a few steps from the Old Town Chiang Mai.
Alternatively, there are plenty of boutique hotels in Chiang Mai. I previously stayed at Villa Duang Champa which I liked and am very keen to splurge at the Villa Mahabhirom.
For a more modern vibe or a long-term rental, you should check out Chiang Mai Nimman.
Do consider how you will get around because even the city center of Chiang Mai and the Old Town are quite big. If you want to walk make sure to bring good shoes, alternatively get that Grab Grab motorbike taxi.
If you want a more local experience check out Enchanted Garden. The bungalows are about half an hour drive outside of Chiang Mai and you will get to experience local village life here.
Where to eat in Chiang Mai
The city is an absolute foodie heaven and that goes way beyond the most famous dish: Khao Soi, Chiang Mai. Even better – there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options and halal food, nobody has to go without amazing dishes.
One of the best options is a food tour for example on the back of a motorbike with Just Love Experience. Alternatively, pick any of the night markets in Chiang Mai and just eat your way around. Honestly, there is always a market and I find it hard to say which one is best, I guess they offer more or less the same.
Since it was Sunday when I arrived I went to the Sunday Night Market in Chiang Mai on Rachadamnoen Road starting at the Tha Phae Gate. For 200 baht (about $6) I stuffed my face at different stalls and it was delicious.
For breakfast in Chiang Mai, you have many cafes all around town. In Niamman you will also find a few that function as a co-working. Sun Rays Cafe seems the most famous among the Chiang Mai cafes – I couldn’t get in as it had a line when I arrived at 8.30 am. But honestly, it wasn’t hard to find a cute coffee shop – Chiang Mai has plenty!
Food wasn’t the main focus of my trip so I did minimal research. However, here are some restaurants in Chiang Mai I went to and enjoyed:
Downtown Vegan: I went here with some friends one of them being vegan. I had an awesome Banh Mi and some zucchini fries. They also have great bowls, pasta dishes, and Thai food – all vegan, not that you would know it. It is a great option even for a group of picky eaters.
Vegan Heaven: According to my vegan friend they make the best homemade chips and guacamole, and true, it did not disappoint. I also tried their vegan Khao soi which was nice though I wouldn’t have called it Khao soi.
THE HOUSE by Ginger: This restaurant has one location in town and one out of town. Both my friend and the Michelin recommended it and if you are looking for a fancy authentic Thai restaurant it is the spot to be. The setting, either inside or outside is beautiful, the service quick and friendly and the food amazing. I order the prettiest dumplings and a banana flower salad with prawns. You definitely pay a premium here even for classic dishes but it is worth it!
Gin Udon: I went here twice because I was in the mood for ramen. It seems super local and while I am not a ramen expert yet, the big portions were yummy and the noodles extra slurpy.
Haidilao: Yet another friend in Chiang Mai took me to eat my very first hotpot. Actually, my second, if you count the one I had in China, but this one was quite different. We ate at Haidilao at the Central Festival as I was going to have my first trip to the cinema in Chiang Mai after.
If you can I recommend you go with someone who knows what they are doing when it comes to ordering. And whatever you do, don’t order one of each from the menu like we did. We had so much food left over!
In case you don’t know what hotpot is, expect some kind of fondue but with a lot more yummy things. Think fresh scallops, wagyu slices, prawn mince balls, different broths, robots, and a noodle show. Don’t ask, just go…
Victor French Bistro & Bakery: After a week or so I usually crave something non-Thai so I found Victor, a French restaurant in a nice garden. The menu is a funny mix of French and international dishes but they are mostly known for their pastries and cheese fondue. I opted for a regular Ceasar Salad and some sweet treats for takeaway. While the service wasn’t great my food was nice and the setting is green and quaint – perfect for a summery lunch.
What to do in Chiang Mai
There are plenty of things to do and see in Chiang Mai. Whether you are planning a weekend or a 5-day Chiang Mai itinerary, I promise you, that you will not get bored.
First start with a stroll through Old Town Chiang Mai which is surrounded by the old city walls and the moat. On the way you should stop by the Wat Chiang Yuen, Wat Rajamontean, and Wat Lokmolee – all three temples are located in the Old Town.
Outside of the city walls, you will find the Wat Phra Doi Suthep, known for its gold chedi, and a little further out the Wat Phra That Doi Kham. Personally, I like to wander on my own but if you are a history buff, I recommend booking a city tour in Chiang Mai.
If you have enough time I definitely recommend you book a trip to Chiang Rai to see the famous temples there – white, black, and blue. The trip by bus takes about 3 hours each way. You can either book a whole tour or just your bus ticket to Chiang Rai and find your way to the temples on your own.
Foodies in Chiang Mai
As I mentioned before, no Chiang Mai travel itinerary would be complete without visiting one of the famous night markets. There is the Sunday market and the Saturday Night Market Chiang Mai, the Kalare Night Bazaar, and if you like to eat the Chang Puak Market North Gate for the best street food. Either way, you won’t go hungry.
If you are more hands-on when it comes to food, you have to do a cooking class in Chiang Mai. Many will take you out of the city to show you rural life and you will learn to make authentic Lanna dishes at someone’s home. Alternatively, they are combined with a market visit that will teach you all about Thai produce and ingredients.
Adventure in Chiang Mai
One of the best things to do in Chiang Mai is to hang out with elephants. Which is the best elephant sanctuary in Chiang Mai? For a truly ethical experience, visit the Elephant Nature Park, a proper sanctuary (similar to the Elephant Haven in Samui). You can walk and observe the elephants but there is no riding or bathing them to minimize stress through human contact. But honestly even just being close and feeding them is an experience you shouldn’t miss – they are so fun! Book early enough as their calendar fills up quickly.
The mountainous region is also perfect for hiking in Chiang Mai and many operators offer trips over a few hours or even a few days. Some add wild water rafting or ziplining in Chiang Mai. For those who ask if there is a beach in Chiang Mai – the answer is unfortunately not. However, there is the ChiangMai River Beach, a little beach club by the river. While it won’t compare with the beaches in Krabi, Koh Phi Phi, or Koh Tao it might scratch your itch while you are in Chiang Mai craving beach vibes.
Wellness in Chiang Mai
A massage in Chiang Mai is a must after a lot of hiking and walking. I recommend getting a Toksen Massage at Green Bamboo, which my friend told me about. This massage is using a wooden chisel and a small hammer, tapping along the energy lines of your body.
The method was already used back in the day by farmers to revitalize their body after a long day of work. While it is a bit unnerving at first, it really works and the little spa in the Old Town is a lovely place to try it. Of course, they also offer regular Thai and oil massages and a variety of other treatments.
For more wellness try an ice bath in Chiang Mai! After exploring ice bathing in Koh Tao, I am now officially obsessed and was delighted to find out about Jason Ryer who leads breathwork and ice bathing sessions in Chiang Mai.
He leads classes bi-weekly in the back garden at Alt_Chiangmai, a coworking space and cafe. Sessions are 250 Baht (ca. $7) and take about 1,5 hours, towels and showers are provided. It is the perfect way to reenergize after a long night out or if your immune system needs a pick-me-up.
