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Heading to the Gulf of Thailand? Don’t miss a visit on Koh Tao, the so called turtle island and smallest of the trio with Koh Samui and Koh Phangan. Though small, Koh Tao is jampacked with cool things to do and see – above and below the water. For some of my personal favorites read on – my very biased travel guide Koh Tao!
When to go
How to get to Koh Tao
Koh Tao Accommodation
Koh Tao Restaurants
Things to do in Koh Tao
I’m admitting that I’m very much a creature of habit when I tell you that most of my Koh Tao holiday took place in Chalok Bay and I didn’t move very much nor miss much. Why mess with a good thing? Sometimes you just want to find a place and settle down for a week or two and call it a day.
So while this won’t be the most comprehensive travel guide Koh Tao you will find, I promise you all places are tried, tested and loved to a degree that I think if they had Buy 5, Get 1 Free deals, I would have saved a lot of money already…
And after just returning from spending another two months there, I have not only confirmed some good old faithful but also find a few new options that swiftly made my list.
Travel Guide Koh Tao – When to go
It seems that every month has its perks for a Koh Tao holiday depending on what you are looking for: hottest weather between March and May, but also best for Whale Shark spotting, more quiet time with balmy temperatures in June through early September, vibey busy season Christmas, January, and February. The only month that is really not recommended is November for that is monsoon time.
Also do check the Koh Phangan full moon party schedule as a lot of party goers stay Koh Tao and just hop over for the night, so accommodations and ferries tend to get rather crowded for big party dates.
Alternative check out The Sanctuary Thailand on Koh Phangan if you are looking for a secluded retreat and yoga haven.
How to get to Koh Tao – Find the turtle
The easiest way to get to Koh Tao is to board a flight from either Bangkok or Phuket and fly to Koh Samui. From the airport, you can easily get a ferry ticket with a transfer to the pier and either take the Lomprayah or Seatran ferry. I have only ever taken the Lomprayah, but from what I gather the only real difference are the departure times and that they leave from different piers. In case you are an anxious traveler like me, you can book your tickets online before, but in most cases, you should be fine just getting them once you land. Just give yourself enough time to get off the plane, get your luggage and an hour to get from the airport to the pier.
Samui has the prettiest airport, orchids and cute boutiques included, so if you need to spend some time there until your ferry leaves, don’t despair. The ferry takes about two hours and stops in Koh Phangan on the way.
Once you need to leave Koh Tao, allocate enough time and then some because ferries do run late at times.
Unfortunately, Bangkok Airways holds a bit of a monopoly on domestic flights and they are not cheap considering the distance.
Alternatively, you can take a bus/ferry combo with Lomprayah from Bangkok or Phuket to Koh Tao. The Lomprayah crew will pick you up at your hotel or you start directly from the airport. A few hours on the bus and then you will need to take the ferry again – after all, you are going to an island so there is no way around it. Unless, of course, there is a helicopter pad I didn’t know about?!
To be honest, this option isn’t the most comfortable unless you get the bus with the big comfy leather seat. On my recent visit, I didn’t get so lucky and the 7 hours on the bus were painful. I would only recommend this option if you are on a strict budget, not short on time and under 40 😉
A newish combination of the two is offered by Nok Air or Air Asia. You can buy a ticket with a flight/bus/ferry combo. You will fly to Surat Thani and from there take the bus to the pier and then the ferry. Price and travel time falls smack bang in the middle of both options mentioned above. Another bonus: you are covered in case the ferry or your flight is delayed!
How to get around on Koh Tao
Once you have arrived on Koh Tao there are a few options to get around:
a) You are an expert on a Vespa. And by expert I mean expert – roads are not the best and I saw quite a few people getting nasty injuries.
b) You want to ride your bicycle.
c) Take a taxi boat.
d) You are like me and have a New York stride and love your taxis. Taxis on Koh Tao are usually 4×4 bakkies and if you see some of the roads you will understand why. Unlike other places, they are also quite expensive for Thailand standards thanks to the taxi cartel. Negotiate your fare before and be prepared to be windswept – you will most likely sit on a bench in the open back.
Where to stay in Koh Tao & Sleep like a baby
I’m here to shamelessly advertize the places I love. Or maybe, I shouldn’t, because I want them all to myself. But then again, sharing is caring, so here we go… If you are on Koh Tao for scuba diving, and just for argument’s sake, let’s presume you are, you will pick a dive centre and stay there, because that’s how it goes and also it is a lot cheaper. Some people like to be in the thick of the action and those people will stay at Sairee Beach in Koh Tao, choose one of its dive schools and that’s fine. If you are a little…different, I recommend you contact New Heaven Dive School and let them hook you up.
You have the choice of three kinds of accommodation, depending on your budget and comfort levels. Right in Chalok Bay, you can stay next to the dive school – a room, a bathroom, AC and a view over the pool and if you get lucky some scared newbie divers, doing their first underwater steps.
For less money, you can climb a little hill across the road and stay in a diver’s hut – bathroom, fan and a balcony/porch/hammock. A great accommodation in Koh Tao for very little money.
Or you can hitch a ride and stay at Baan Talay, their beautiful resort up in the hills. You will either need these excellent motorcycle skills, really good walking shoes or take the 4×4 shuttle taxi to get there. But all of the efforts of getting there are so worth it. THE view, THE outdoor shower, THE utmost tranquility. It is just so very beautiful. The only word of caution – there is some wildlife to consider. If you are a complete princess or have an animal phobia, it may not be for you, for everything else there are mosquito coils. It truly is one of the best hotels in Koh Tao albeit with a twist.
As I was staying for longer than a few days I opted for one of the many monthly rentals in Koh Tao you can find this time around. I stayed for a month at The Greenery and then at the more basic Tropicana Resort, both options I was happy with.
Sairee Beach Accommodation
If you rather want to be a bit closer to the action, Sairee Beach is the place to stay. On my two most recent visits, I stayed at Prik Thai which was the perfect choice as it is right by the ‘promenade’ and close to all the bars and restaurants yet tucked away to be quiet enough. My room was clean and spacious and perfect for the price.
After eating there I recently decided to give Savage hostel a try. I dared to book a dorm room but was honestly put off by a strong beer smell at 10 am and the fact that their lockers couldn’t fit my suitcase. I am getting too old for this shit.
I decided to upgrade to a single room which was pricey considering it is a hostel and you are in Thailand, but I didn’t regret it for a second – rooms are tiny but super comfy, have AC, and great wifi. You also get a nice breakfast included in your rate and best of all, Savage has an awesome rooftop pool and bar should you tire of the beach.
Where to eat in Koh Tao
Koh Tao, while small, is not short of great choices of places to eat and so it was heaven to me because you know I like to worship at the altar of food. Here are my favorites and if you visit, you will understand why you won’t need any others.
The little Japanese place
It’s obviously only called such by me and my friend. It is called Asia Mood and is right opposite New Heaven. Japanese food at its best – great sushi, udon noodles, fried chicken and everything in between. Comes with the loveliest service, old Singer sewing machines turned to tables and kittens. Definitely, try the Agadashi Tofu and the Tofu Don rice. One of the best places to eat in Koh Tao!
If you are staying in Chalok Bay Yin Yang is the perfect little Thai place around the corner, just past the 7 Eleven. Get here early, because this place seems always full because they simply have the yummiest Thai food in Koh Tao. Have a Singha, some no names and Panang curry or Pad Thai and don’t burn your feet on the mosquito coils underneath the tables.
I <3 Salad
After a few days (or weeks) of Thai curries & Co. you might be craving something fresh and that is when I <3 Salad comes into play. Choose either from one of their salads on the menu or make your own from the salad bar – fresh and delicious!
While I was there a new BBQ pork place opened up and man, do I wish I would have discovered it sooner. The pork over rice is to die for and best of all really inexpensive!
It is located right in a little jungle stretch next to Ananas and quickly became one of my favorite places to eat in Koh Tao.
Sairee is full of typical beach bars and restaurants and honestly, none of them stood out food wise. I reckon you come here for a beer during sunset and eat at any of the other places. There are however a glorious exceptions…
995 Roasted Duck
If you want to eat in Sairee Beach, Koh Tao I recommend a trip to the Roasted Duck, a big eatery just up the road from the Sairee Beach 7 Eleven (yes, that is a real landmark). Get a big portion of – what else? – roasted, but succulent duck over rice or a bowl of noodles with fish bowls in broth. Cheap, easy, and so very yummy.
Barracuda is the new kid on the block and has 2 outlets, the cafe being the smaller one. It is definitely more a restaurant than a cafe though and offers great and breezy rooftop views. They specialize in seafood platters and tapas and make great chili lemongrass mojitos.
While they do offer a special of 4 tapas for 690 baht this is way too much if you are eating by yourself. I ordered the prawns and chorizo and tuna tartar bruschetta – since both of my tapas came with bread, that was more than enough for a dinner.
Fancy a fancy night out? Gallery is your place to be. Right next to the Roasted Duck so you could potentially do lunch at the one and dinner at the other, it offers Thai cuisine with a twist. Have their signature curry served in a whole coconut with some pineapple basil martinis and relish in the fact that this must be the one place in Thailand where they will actually appreciate your Louboutins. Or at least let you wear them. After all, Gallery is the best restaurant in Koh Tao.
The most romantic restaurant in Koh Tao has moved to Sairee beach. Whitening is well known as the spot for a nice meal on the beach and if you are looking for a fancier dinner option this is the place to go. Gleaming white, beachy interior await. The menu is more international and on the pricey side, some may call it overpriced. I did like my pasta dish though (and we all know how picky I can get with pasta) so I would definitely recommend Whitening for a date!
I only had drinks at Blue Water before and they have a great, creative cocktail menu – see picture above. This time I also came for food and returned a few nights in a row. They have a great selection of non-Thai dishes done really well. Try the falafel and pumpkin salad or the Carbonara, especially the latter was surprisingly good as is the bowl with tofu and sesame dressing.
Things to do in Koh Tao
In case you do want to do something and relax at the same time, I recommend what you can do in Koh Tao: massage, swimming, snorkeling or diving, and yoga. Repeat in random order and as often as necessary.
There is plenty of great little massage places around but my favorite was the place right opposite 7Eleven in Chalok as well the little wooden parlor between New Heaven and the Tropicana Resort. Prices are island prices, but so is everything on Koh Tao. For the perfect massage remember your Thai: nàk-nàk if you like it harder and bao-bao if you are, ahem, sensitive like me and prefer it softer. Go for an aloe massage if you got too much sun!
Read more: Where to find the best massage in Thailand.
There are many amazing view points around Koh Tao and if you are done with all the water fun, hiking is a great alternative. If you want to combine the both, head to Nangyuan Island which is off the coast of Koh Tao. You can snorkel, tan, and also climb the surrounding hill for a great view of this pretty little bay.
Plenty of boats and tours will offer to take you there, make sure to go early in order to avoid the masses or at least safe a sunlounger on the sandbank which connects both parts of Koh Nang Yuan.
One of the things to do in Koh Tao is of course, scuba diving. I spent a lot of time diving the same dive sites but I still think it is a good and easy spot to get certified but those who like a challenge might get bored. If you are a diver already ask when they do trips to places like Chumphon Pinnacle and Sail Rock – some of the best scuba diving in Koh Tao!
I just finished my solo diver course with Big Blue Tech, the technical department of Big Blue Diving. Whether you are brand new or looking to get advanced certifications, I wholeheartedly recommend them – ask for Fiona and Andrew!
Snorkel & Freedive
Even if you are not a diver, you can still enjoy the crystal clear waters and Koh Tao’s amazing underwater world. Many companies offer snorkel boat trips around the island, usually visiting 4 – 5 sites in a day. I did it once and must honestly say that it wasn’t my cup of tea – too many people scattered around in life vests, scaring the Nemos. I’d recommend you check with the dive schools instead as they sometimes take snorkelers at a fraction of the price. Just make sure that the dive sites of the day, usually depending on weather conditions, are also suitable for snorkeling so you will have enough to see.
Great options are Japanese Garden and Shark Bay where I got lucky and saw baby reef sharks while snorkeling. If bigger trips are on the agenda you may even get lucky and snorkel with a whale shark.
For those interested in freediving head to Blue Immersion, one of two exclusive freedive shops on the island. I loved it!
To shop or not to shop
And now you will ask me where to buy stuff, your souvenirs, your elephant pants and your Banana Boat. Quite frankly I didn’t shop much on Koh Tao as I spent most of my time underwater. Also, the street vendors seem to offer same same, but different of everything that you get all over Thailand, only more expensive. The things I like to take for presents are local snacks like watermelon seeds, seaweed chips and dried squid to freak out my nephew. You can get all of that from 7Eleven as well as curry pastes and Thai tea powder from a little roadside shop. If you are there for a longer stay like me and you are missing your wine head to Chez Albert at the beginning of Sairee. They sell amazing European wine here (at premium prices of course but at least you know you are getting some good stuff) as well as cheeses, charcuterie and a line of soaps and lotions. Another great little shop is May + Co right down the road. Sleek, hip and understated is the decor and what they sell: beautiful china, handmade dresses and beauty products all incredibly curated.
To round up this travel guide Koh Tao I want to touch on the subject of safety. I didn’t think I had to, but there have been a lot of rumors about the island’s safety – is Koh Tao safe many ask. I cannot possibly comment on it and what is true and what isn’t, I do not know. All I will say is that I have always felt really safe there and have heard the same from many others who lived there for a while. Obviously each place has its issues, however, I always felt safe with the usual of common sense applied.
The one issue I had was my health. There was something about being in the water all the time and the humidity that was really hard on my body. Even small mosquito bites got infected and wouldn’t heal, I had tonsillitis and then for some unknown reason my joints started swelling. Not fun!
In addition, a lot of the nurse’s stations you can find everywhere are a bit too liberal with the antibiotics and according to my friend the only real clinic couldn’t even diagnose a broken toe. If you have an issue, I suggest heading to Sawasdee right next to the Chalok Bay 7Eleven. Fai, the nurse there, is amazing and takes a more holistic approach to health and well-being.
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