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By now we have established that Bangkok is one of my favorite cities in the world and I like it enough to spend extended amounts of time there. While I usually hang out in the old part of town for the most authentic food, cheap massages, and its proximity to the Chao Praya river and all of the city’s major sights, I have recently discovered a new part of town: Thonglor, Bangkok.
Thonglor or Thong Lo is synonymous with Soi Sukhumvit 55 and by now one of the hippest neighborhoods in Bangkok. Technically is all part of Sukhumvit but considering that Sukhumvit is almost 500 km long and runs to the border of Cambodia, I think it is wise to differentiate. Thonglor and adjacent Ekkamai are especially beloved by Japanese expats which means that you can find some seriously good Japanese food here. Mind you, also those craving some trendy Thai food or a cool bar have come to the right place.
If you are craving a look into trendy Bangkok life, a visit in Thonglor is a must and thanks to a convenient connection with the BTS, you can quickly explore the rest of town from here.
Thonglor, Bangkok – Where to Eat & Where to Sleep
Table of Contents:
Where to Eat in Thonglor
There are plenty of hip and trendy restaurants in Thonglor. If you are after the cheapest streetfood in Bangkok though, this probably isn’t your area. Instead plent of Japanese and Korean restaurants and high-end Thai eateries like R-HAAN, a traditional Thai restaurant with 2 Michelin stars.
Here are some of my personal favorite Thonglor restaurants:
Homeland Cafe & Grocer
If you are after organic food and are staying longer in Thonglor, chances are you will cross paths with Homeland Cafe & Grocer sooner or later. Even if you are not planning on cooking yourself, it is a great place for a healthy meal. The interior is earthy and zen and on the menu are fresh bowls, salads, and sandwiches. Even the more indulgent breakfast options are done with high-end organic ingredients. And of course, there are various matchas on the menu.
While the prices are definitely on the higher end, the ingredients do deliver.
Next to Homeland you will find a cute matcha take-away counter and a few houses down, Wilma’s Bakehouse has set up shop. This is a cute and very delicious Danish bakery. On the same block you will also find Aesop if you need some retail therapy.
GaGa Udon House
I came across GaGa Udon House when I stayed at Shama Yen-Akat as one of their branches was right across the street. After, I found out that they had another restaurant in Thonglor.
As the name implies, udon soups are on the menu. Since I consider udon the superior Japanese noodle I was happy about my find. And they are delicious! They have hot and cold udon with various different broths and toppings. While I wasn’t a fan of the carbonara udon, the rest was utterly delicious and the service is very friendly, reminding me of Tokyo.
theCOMMONS
theCOMMONS are the heart of this Bangkok hipster area and with good reason. You will find the coolest Bangkok expats and locals strolling through this marketplace, coworking space, mall hybrid – community over mall character is the motto. There are bunting and hipster lights and of course, craft beer and Instagrammable ice cream and churros with different dips.
In addition, they have an excellent wine bar and many lovely food options from lobster rolls to steaks to artisan pizza and poke bowls. There is also Seven Suns, a matcha cafe on the ground floor where matcha aficionados can get their fix.
Head upstairs to get your nails done (with vegan nail polish of course!), stock up on eco-friendly products at Earth Mart, and buy yourself some pretty flowers on the way out.
theCOMMONS, Thonglor is also a great place if you are looking for a co-working venue and you can even bring your dog and park your bike at designated bicycle parking spots.
Khua Kling Pak Sod
After one of my favorite Thonglor restaurants, Soul Food Mahanakorn, closed down I needed another option where I could eat yellow curry with crab and betel leaves. Luckily I found just the place, chef recommended: Khua Kling Pak Sod.
They have 4 branches all over Bangkok now and only offer traditional southern Thai food – like grandma used to make. And yes, they have Gaeng Pu Bai Cha Plu with rice noodles said crab curry and one of my favorite dishes from the south of Thailand. It was delicious albeit made me cry just a bit – if you are not one for spiciness you need to tell them to dial it down when you order.
Supanninga Eating Room
Supanninga is another great option for authentic Thai food in a cool environment. There are 3 outlets all over Bangkok, and the Thonglor branch is a great spot for a chic lunch or a cozy dinner.
Traditional heritage food is on the menu and the good news: carnivores, seafood lovers, and vegetarians will be equally pleased by the options. I loved the glass noodles with mushrooms and deep-fried tofu. Luckily even for foreigners, the food comes with a good spicy kick here!
Bacco Osteria da Sergio
Sometimes it rains in Bangkok and all you want is a big glass of red wine, a pizza, and a waiter who calls you ‘bella’. All this awaits at Bacco, an Italian restaurant in Thonglor that is right opposite the Volve Hotel.
The interior isn’t fancy and a bit dusty but the service is lovely and the wine affordable. In addition, the pizzas are huge, and honestly quite good (this coming from a self-proclaimed pizza snob). Nothing innovative or exciting but if you are looking for a cozy dinner place for some traditional Italian, I can recommend Bacco.
Things to do in Thonglor
To be honest, there are not that many things to do or see in Thonglor – this is not one of Bangkok’s sightseeing areas. People either live and work here or come for the food and the nightlife.
Wellness in Thonglor
Of course, you are still in Bangkok so finding a good spa in Thonglor is not hard. If you wanted a slightly fancier but still affordable option, I recommend the Divana Divine Spa. They have great packages that are perfect for a day of pampering.
But in addition, to your usual Thai massage, another nod to the Japanese influence in Thonglor are the onsen that you will find here. There is Forest Massage & Spa Onsen and Let’s Relax Onsen, that has multiple branches in Bangkok. You can either book just an onsen visit or a combination with a massage. It might not be Japan, but is a good option if you can’t make it to Shibu Onsen.
For those who like it cold, you can go for an ice bath at Fast and Fit. While I still prefer Blue Chitta in Koh Tao for my breathwork and icebath, it is a great option in the city and not too expensive either. And if you want pilates or a cycle class there is a branch of Absolute You at theCommons.
- Book at Forest Massage & Spa Onsen Thonglor
- Book Let’s Relax Onsen Experience
- Book at Divana Divine Spa
If you want to get your nails done, I recommend Nail House Bangkok that is around the corner from the Commons. Don’t pay the full price but buy a treatment on Gowabi for the best deals!
Shopping in Thonglor
Even the shopping options are limited in Thonglor. Unless you are into grocery shopping because there are quite a few good malls and shops. I especially love Makotoya, a Japanese grocery store where you can stock up on your matcha and Japanese snacks if you are not in the mood for a whole frozen octopus.
Eight Thong Lo is a small mall with multiple shops and a big grocery store, and theCommons has a few cute boutiques. Alternatively you hop on the BTS and get out one stop later at Phrom Pong. There you will find the golden triangle of Bangkok shopping malls: EmQuartier, EmSphere, and Emporium. Or you head a little further to Siam Square. Make sure to inform your bank at home because chances are your credit card is going to burn.
My favorite Thonglor Hotels
Where to stay in the Thonglor area? There aren’t lots of backpacker options nor the best luxury accommodation in Bangkok in the area. However, Thonglor has a few nice options to spend a few nights and while it is considered one of the pricier areas in Bangkok there is luckily something for every budget available.
IR-ON
The IR-ON is another one of my favorite hotels in Thonglor: modern, industrial, and very very cool.
They have a little cafe downstairs with some great coffee and various room categories. I stayed at a standard double room and was not disappointed especially considering their insanely good prices and beautiful faucets (not sure I ever gave a hotel extra points for their faucets!).
While it is not on Thonglor Road, you are within walking distance from the Thong Lo BTS station.
The Volve
The Volve must be my favorite hotel in Thonglor: small and very boutique-y. The hotel is urban and quintessential Thai but thanks to its architect Pitipat Jongsomjit also called Khun Um it also has a seriously cool streak. The rooms are sleek and modern and make for a simple and sophisticated refugee for guests, whether you are headed to Bangkok for business or fun. My favorite: the complimentary minibar stocked with water in glass bottles (yay for no plastic!) and Thai snacks. They have a few different room categories and while even the suites are not huge (this is a proper city hotel with room sizes to match) you will find everything that you need for your Thonglor stay.
Breakfast is a feast and they also have a cafe with an outside sitting area for snacks and treats throughout the day.
How to get to Thonglor & how to get around
Since Thonglor is technically part of Sukhumvit that means you can use the BTS Sukhumvit line to get there. It even has its own BTS stop “Thong Lor”. On the other end of Thong Lo street is the Thonglor Pier that you can reach by boat.
If you are coming from Suvarnabhumi Airport you can take the Airport Rail Link to Phaya Thai and get on the BTS Sukhumvit line there. It will take you about an hour to get to the Thong Lor stop.
Coming from Don Mueang Airport you will need to take the bus to the Victory Monument and switch to the BTS there. While those are definitely the cheapest options, I usually don’t bother since I always have a lot of luggage. I either use a Grab taxi or order a transfer with Welcome Pickups. This way a driver picks me up in the arrival hall and takes me straight to my accommodation.
Because while Thonglor isn’t huge the main road Soi Sukhumvit 55 that goes up north from Sukhumvit is almost 4 kilometers long. And there is basically no public transport from one end to the other. There is not even a bus that goes all the way.
This means, once you have arrived at the BTS Thong Lor you will either need to walk or hop on a motorbike. The usual ojek drivers wait for you when you get out from the station and are easily recognized by their orange vests. I personally prefer a Grab motorbike for saftey reasons – Grab drivers will provide you with a helmet. While traffic on Soi Sukhumvit 55 is by far not the craziest in Bangkok, I wouldn’t ever get on a bike without a helmet.
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