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Updated January 2026
Bangkok that is big, tall, fast. Bangkok is a quintessential modern metropolis for most and I love it. Yet, the more I think about it I don’t love Bangkok because it is so big, tall, and fast. I am always a bit stunned when guides recommend the Siam Centre, tell you not to miss its shopping malls. I have been a few times and only once did I set foot in the Siam Centre with a very specific purchase in mind. When the shop didn’t have what I needed I stayed for a Jaimie Oliver pizza and wine to get over my disappointment of having wasted time in a mall. That and seeing the Hello Kitty cafe was the only highlight of it.
No, I don’t love the big, tall, and fast, my heart beats for the Old Town Bangkok – Phra Nakhon. The part of town where time stands still and no Skytrain station is in sight. The part where you don’t see many tourists except when you go to see the Grand Palace and some of the best Bangkok temples, where locals sell food from little holes in the wall and where birdcages with priced chirpers hang from the awnings.
Explore the charm of old town Bangkok
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And yes, that’s what all the birds are there for! They ain’t mere pets or even decorations, they are working birds, kept to make their owners some money in chirping competitions. Champions are worth a lot and well-taken care of so they can chirp another day. This and more I learn from my friend Toni while we make our way through little side roads and I wonder aloud about all the bird cages.
Incense, incense, and more incense await us as well as vendors who have set up shop around the temple in the old city of Bangkok. They sell little, prepacked parcels with offerings: a piece of bacon, a hard-boiled egg, and some yellow flowers as well as red envelopes, firecrackers, and, of course, more incense. The inside of the temple is filled with smoke thanks to the latter and doesn’t invite to linger unless you are truly devoted.
What do to in Old town Bangkok
For a sunset stroll further around Bangkok old city and to walk up an appetite for dinner (because if you stay in the old part of Bangkok you need to eat ALL the food!). I make my way up Lod Canal and head towards the flower market, an old market in Bangkok and one of my favorite places. On my way, I get to watch a live sidewalk Thai boxing class. The champions of tomorrow and their coach are busy with practice and don’t seem to mind an audience. The ‘arena’ is covered with rose pedals due to its proximity to the flower market, not that the boys care. The coach is an austere looking man and lives up to the cliche of a boxing coach: gold chain, stern look and a master himself at spitting and shouting.
When a tiny boy is paired with the biggest in the group I can barely look, it is a proper David again Goliath match. The little one though defends himself well and is quick on his feet, earning praise from the coach and a round of applause from the bystanders. Chubby Goliath looks sour and takes his place on the sidelines, it is time for some others to take to the street in this old quarter of Bangkok and for him to sulk.
I move on to relish in mountains of Bangkok orchids and be hypnotized by the smell of jasmine garlands. I could live in Bangkok old city just to buy a bouquet of orchids every week.
Sightseeing in Old Town Bangkok
The Grand Palace, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and Wat Pho are the biggest attractions in Phra Nakhon, making this the perfect area for culture and history fans. Make sure to cover your knees and shoulders for your visit and come as early as possible. Especially if you want a selfie with the Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho as it tends to get busy.
The entrance fee for Wat Pho (formally known as Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram Rajwaramahawihan) is currently 300 baht for foreigners and the combined fee for the Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha is 500 baht.
You can also book tickets and tours here:
From the Wat Pho Pier, you can hop on a boat that will take you to the other side of the river if you want to visit Wat Arun. But even from this side – the view of the temple is stunning. Wat Arun is only 100 baht, and you can also book a photo session with traditional Thai costumes while you are there.
Get a massage
Just in case you feel like doing something else than eating… Wat Pho also houses the oldest school for Thai massage. If you are not keen to pay the entrance fee to get your Wat Pho massage, you can just visit the other branch of the massage school here. Prices and service are the same, and chances are you won’t have to wait long.
Alternatively, I really like Sabaijai for a massage – their prices are insanely low and it is clean.
Where to find the best massage in Bangkok
Have a drink on Khao San Road
The most famous of all of Bangkok’s streets, Khao San Road, is located in Banglamphu, a neighborhood in Phra Nakhon. Unless you have an early bus to catch with Lomprahay to go to Koh Tao or such, I would not recommend you stay here. Its golden backpacker days are long gone, accommodation is mainly still dingy and it is just so very loud here.
That said if it is your first time in Bangkok, a visit to the infamous Khao San for a beer is a must-do. If you are over 25 you will probably flee to adjacent Rambuttri Road quickly and I agree – this is a much nicer spot for a foot massage and a fruit shake. Unless of course, you are into pounding music of all genres, laughing gas, and weed.
Where to eat in Phra Nakhon
Saochingcha, is a part of Phra Nakhon and a streetfood lovers paradise. My Bangkok friend Toni first showed me the ropes of where to eat.
First up was Kai Yang Boran, a little wood-clad restaurant on Tanao Road in old Bangkok for candy-flossed catfish with peanuts (for a lack of better description), which tastes a lot better than it looks. Next is Mont Nom Sod, a place that sells nothing but toast with variations of sweet condensed milk, custards, and jams. What sounds like an odd concept to me, is beloved by Thais, many of them tourists.
I, however, prefer my favorite green pandan custard with Pa Tong Ko, Thai donuts. You will need to wait until 5 pm though until Mr. & Mrs. Donut open their little stall called Pa Tong Ko Sawoy in Gangkok old town. Go for a big packet and definitely get extra custard!
If you don’t have a Tony by your side to show you the best places to eat in Bangkok’s Old Town, I recommend you book the Old Siam food tour from A Chef’s Tour. They will show you some of the best eateries and food stalls with traditional dishes and family recipes. Guaranteed places you would never find on your own!
Alternatively here are some great restaurants in Bangkok Old Town:
RONGROS
If you don’t want street food but still eat authentic Thai head to RONGROS. It pays off to make a reservation in advance and come for sunset as you will have a spectacular view over the river and straight onto Wat Arun.
On the menu innovative cocktails and traditional Thai dishes from all over the country – sour sausage, Isaan-style ribeye, twice-cooked pork belly as well as fish and seafood. Prices are very affordable especially when considering the setting and the quality of food.
Jay Fai
So here is the deal: Jay Fai is famous in Bangkok. Similar to the noodle man in Singapore she was the first with a street food restaurant to receive a Michelin star in Bangkok. While I always love these kinds of stories I can’t feel help bad for all the others who didn’t get one. In addition, her fame comes with a steep price tag – 1,000 baht (or maybe more now??) for the infamous crab omelet – and a line that is always long.
My friend who is a food writer swears that her omelet and noodles are so worth it but honestly I still have my doubts. If you are keen to give it a go, come before they open to get on the waiting list.
Krua Apsorn
Krua Apsorn may not look like much from the outside but it is always full of locals, a sure sign for a good kitchen. They have also been praised by Michelin before as well as my favorite foodie website Local Tongue.
Try the tiger prawn curry with lotus or the stir-fried crab. If you are in the mood for a crab omelet but don’t want to pay Jay Fai prices, they also make a really good one. Whatever you choose, just ignore the neon lights and canteen-like atmosphere and enjoy the food and the great prices.
Thipsamai/ Leung Pha Pad Thai
Now let’s talk about pad thai while you are in the area. This Bangkok classic is a must if you come to the city and the only question remains – who does it best? Ask anyone who lives here and everyone will tell you a different place to go.
Thipsamai holds the title of best pad thai in Bangkok but I disagree. Mind you, I understand the appeal of wanting to give it a go, and if you don’t mind waiting for a table go for it! Otherwise, get a takeaway or even better go to the Leung Pha Pad Thai right next door. In my humble but thoroughly tested opinion, their pad thai is far better and also cheaper. Another plus – you won’t ever have to wait for a table.
There Bar & Cafe
If you wanted a bit more of a contemporary setting head to There Bar. They have a big backyard which is attached to their hostel and perfect for a beer or two. At times it does get quite backpacker-y but nothing compared to Khao San Road.
They also offer some Thai food at decent price that are pretty good.
Where to stay in old town Bangkok?
Old Town Bangkok is usually my first stop when I arrive in the city as it tends to get me into authentic Bangkok mode the fastest. You are going to look in vain for fancy or big luxury hotels in this part of town which to me is part of the area’s charm. There are however plenty of lovely guesthouses and hostels – here are my favorites:
Na Tanao 1969
I have missed the Asadang ever since it closed even when I am not in Bangkok. To me, this place reminded me of the excitement of my very first Bangkok trip and how it just became such a stepping stone for me as a traveler. I have not found an equivelent, until now.
Finding Na Tanao 1969 was a good fortune and I am not actually sure how it happened. Probably a random Google search and an inkling that I was on to something good. That said, except for the location in Phra Nakhon, Na Tanao is nothing like the Asadang.
It isn’t an old building turned hotel. In fact, there wasn’t a building where it is today and it was due to owner Name’s ingenuity that it was created at all. Na Tanao was an arch and a driveway next to his grandmother’s house that was eventually sold. An unused space in between two buildings where Name decided to build a house, meant as a retirement home and project for his late father.
His father never saw its completion but his spirit lives on and is honored in the design of Na Tanao. Today it is a very slim building and a HomeTel, a merge of hotel and home with only 4 rooms. The design is retro and sleek but it honors the heritage of its neighborhood.
There are big glass walls/ windows for uninterrupted views of the building next door, the road in the front, and a back alley – this is not glitzy but you are getting a true feeling for this vibrant Bangkok area. Beds are big comfy, huge bathtubs, great showers, and yes, there is a TV and strong Wifi for thos who need entertainment. And best of all a tiny elevator – a huge advantage to all the other Bangkok guesthouses that are now occuping old buildings.
And of course, Name and his team will truly make you feel at home – with all the frills of staying at a chic boutique-hotel in Old Town Bangkok.
Baan Kachitpan
To dive deep into Bangkok’s Old Town there is no better place to stay than Baan Kachitpan. It is run by owner Jam and her amazing crew of women, and together they have created a little haven in the middle of Bangkok. The old townhouse has lots of antique charm but all the amenities you may need aka great aircon, good wifi, and wonderful coffee. In addition, they make the yummiest Thai breakfast and also offer dinner sometimes.
Best of all is the guesthouse’s location at the end of a residential alley. You can meet your neighbors and their pets on your way to explore the Old Town and get a glimpse into the local daily life. You can easily walk to Khao San Road and many of the great eateries in the neighborhood.
Once you walk out to Dinso Road you just have to cross the street to find one of the best massages places in Bangkok!
Bangkok Bed and Bike
If you are looking for a cool hostel in Old Town Bangkok look no further than Bangkok Bed and Bike. They keep the theme of old Bangkok going inside and yes, as the name suggests you can also rent bicycles to explore the area.
My favorite part – they not only have dorms but also private rooms so you only have to share a bathroom.
Tim Mansion Bangkok
Tim Mansion calls itself a poshtel, a phrase I honestly hate but I guess it describes the mix of both worlds – nice hotel rooms and a bit of a rowdy hostel atmosphere well enough.
You cannot beat their location as they are in the heart of Bangkok Old Town and right next to Jai Fay and Thipsamai. The downstairs isn’t terribly inviting but you can get a cheap-ish beer while the rooms are modern and simple. I don’t remember there being an elevator which can become an issue if you have a lot of luggage but the view over the Golden Mount does make up for it.
How to get to Old Town Bangkok & how to get around
The one issue when staying in Phra Nakhon is the limited public transport, which I guess is also part of its charm. There are only 2 MRT stops on the Blue Line at Sam Yot or Sanam Chai. If you are coming from the Suvarnabhumi Airport you can take the airport rail link to Phaya Thai. From there you will either have to take a bus or the Blue Line to one of these stops. Coming from Don Mueang gets even more complicated as you will need to take a couple of buses.
I recommend that this is the time to “splurge” and either take a taxi or Grab. Alternatively, I like Welcome Pickups, a great transfer service that only costs a little more. A driver will monitor your flight and be in touch via WhatsApp. You pay beforehand online when making a booking and also get a proper receipt.
Once you are in the Old Town, walking is the most common mode of transport. That said, distances can get long and I would recommend a Grab motorbike. Regular taxis are an option but traffic can get congested here. While I usually would never recommend a tuk-tuk, Phra Nakhon is probably the best place in Bangkok to take one. Not only is the pollution less bad than in other parts of the city, it is also incredibly scenic. That said, negotiate beforehand and be prepared to treat a ride as a tourist attraction not as a taxi, and expect prices to match.
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8 comments
Yes. All. Of. This.
Ha! Happy you agree 🙂
Part of Rambuttri runs parallel to Khao San, but despite being located so close by these two streets are different worlds. Rambuttri gives you a taste of how Bangkok used to look before all the skyscrapers arrived. Leafy banyan trees shade the pavements and the vibe sways more towards local than backpacker, despite a number of them now choosing to stay here rather than on the famous street itself.
Yes, I like Rambuttri, but for me it still gets a bit too busy with visitors to stay there. That’s why I prefer to stay in the old town and only go that side for a visit and a massage 🙂
very cool. Bangkok is on my “to-go” list for sure!
Xx
Kali
http://www.lovelaughexplore.com
Do it! It is so convenient to just add a day there or two on your way elsewhere so you can just get a taste of it. And then you will want more and more 🙂
Great post! I’ve never been to Bangkok, but you make it sound really fascinating. And the photos are lovely!
Thanks 🙂 It is such a stunning city, definitely go if you have the chance!