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When I first came to Phuket a few years ago I hated it. I had just come from beautiful, chilled Koh Yao Noi and was thrown into the deep end of everything that is wrong with tourism in Thailand. I lasted two days and vowed to never return.
Practicalities had me change my mind eventually as Phuket is a convenient starting point for island hopping, exploring the beaches in Krabi, and dive excursions in the south of Thailand. If you are coming from Bangkok to Phuket by plane you will arrive at Phuket international airport. It was due to that airport that I discovered the Sirinat National Park after asking around in various travel forums: How to escape the tourist crowds in Phuket?
As soon as I arrived at Naiyang I knew that I had not only discovered the best beach in Phuket but also one that can rank pretty high up as one of the best beaches in Thailand. Long stretches of white sand, powdery of course, which are almost deserted in the mornings and even during the day never get too crowded. Clear water, some shade, and just the right amount of restaurants/beach bars/massage places.
Naiyang Beach – Still The best beach in Phuket?
Update: I recently stayed at Naiyang Beach again when I arrived for my annual Thailand trip. Honestly, I am not so sure anymore if I consider it the best beach in Phuket. Admittedly, I arrived in the rainy off-season, but even with some extra goodwill for the mixed weather, I am not sure anymore.
Naiyang always seems crowded now with a type of tourist I really don’t appreciate; service has become lackluster, and it is just a bit meh overall. Speaking to a friend who has lived in Thailand many years, she agrees with me.
That said, I still think it is a great starting point when you have a late arrival in Phuket, or an early departure, or really like plane spotting on the beach.
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Where to stay at Naiyang Beach
That said, you are in it for a Thailand beach holiday, I recommend you stay at The Slate, one of the best Phuket beach resorts in my opinion. You know I am a hotel snob and was never ashamed of that fact.
The Slate is Bill Bensley’s first hotel in Phuket and has been around for almost twenty years. Phuket has a rich tin mining history which is reflected in the decor of The Slate, showing an unknown side of Phuket. Unlike other typical Thailand resorts or Phuket hotels on the beach, you will find lots of metal, concrete floors, and industrial touches here that are set off with jungle-y surroundings. Concrete jungle meets real jungle.
While the design carries his iconic signature, it is just a tiny bit dated these days, but still a worthy location if you are not into your typical Thai beach hotel style.
Usually, hotels this size are too big for my liking (they have 177 rooms) but luckily the property is big enough for you not to meet too many people if you don’t want to and it also has two designated adults-only pools.
Entry-level rooms are the Pearl Bed Suite that I personally prefer over the private pool suites. Those are on the ground floor and a lot darker, albeit quite a bit bigger. I do like the adult-only pools that never seem too crowded, so I don’t really need a private pool.
Even the Pearl Bed Suites have a bathtub on the balcony, which – don’t ask me why – I have used a few times. Especially when it rains, they are quite cozy.
While I call it the best beach hotel in Phuket, you will have to take a little walk across the road to get to the actual beach.
Where the Slate really shines is when it comes to food. Unfortunately, the restaurants on Naiyang Beach are really not that great anymore, so I would pay a bit extra to eat at the hotel. Definitely have a meal at their signature restaurant Black Ginger – even the arrival is dramatic and very White-Lotus worthy. The food, mainly southern Thai, is really good. Also good is their room service, though they really need to get proper menus back in the rooms – I hate when hotels make you download an app to get access to information.
To be honest, hotels at Naiyang Beach are quite pricey. The Slate is no exception, unfortunately. If you don’t mind foregoing the beach views (and the noise that often goes with them) I recommend you book at 65 Pradit instead if you are on a budget.
This lovely place is less than a 10-minute walk from the beach. You also get a whole flat including a little kitchen, living room, bedroom, and bath. Everything is spotless and comfy, and the owner is so lovely. Even better, the flat is located at the end of a tiny alley where only locals and their cats live.
The flat is easy to reach by car and there is a small Tops supermarket around the corner. It is also really quiet, a big plus over the noisy beach stretch.
If you wanted to stay even closer to the airport and not spend a lot, I recommend Snug Airportel. It actually has nice rooms and amenities, including a pool.
The best beach in Phuket – What to do
Right next to The Slate you will find Sea Bees Diving, a lovely little shop run by the German couple, Michael and Tiin. Scuba diving is definitely one of the must-do Phuket activities but if you are not a diver you can just go on a snorkeling trip with them.
I was out of luck twice because April means that the season is ending and thus the visibility gets a bit crappy. Still, I was just happy to be underwater again. If you want to join them for a dive they also offer trips to other areas with better conditions at this time of the year.
Alternatively, you can head from Phuket to Koh Phi Phi and visit famous Maya Bay, James Bond, or any of the surrounding islands in the Andaman Sea or even the Similans.
When the sea gets too rough for scuba diving usually from May till October you can go kitesurfing instead. KBA Kitesurfing is right on the main road and you can inquire about classes with them.
Other than that, there is not much to do at this beach in Phuket and this is how I like it. A massage with the sound of the ocean, a long walk to Mai Khao beach with a view of the planes landing and taking off (one of the big advantages of the area is that you are right next to the airport) or in my case, just be spoilt by the beauty of the beach.
Take a book, a big bottle of water, and find your perfect spot of white sand – there are few people and much space. Do not forget the sunscreen because little kids will point at you if you get burned and yes, I may or may not be speaking from experience. Don’t forget to float in the warm ocean, relax, snooze – Naiyang is the perfect spot to discover one of the best Phuket beaches off the beaten track, and doing nothing is part of its charm.
Working out
If you want a workout and don’t have a hotel gym at your disposal I recommend getting a day pass at the Airport Gym. Unlike what the name suggests it is not at the airport but close to the beach. Alternatively, head to the lovely Baan Yoga Studio for a class.
The Slate also has a fantastic gym that tempted even me.
Getting pampered
There are plenty of spas on Naiyang Beach where you can get an inexpensive Thai massage. Prices are higher than at Bangkok spas but that is the case at most beach locations in Thailand.
I like the one right on the beach that is open to the sides so you can listen to the sounds of the ocean. Is the massage any good? That will depend on the person doing it. At most of these places a bit of luck is involved but I was quite happy with my Thai massage bao bao (meaning soft).
If you want to pamper yourself I recommend the Coqoon Spa at the Slate. I have had treatments here twice and would definitely book a massage in one of their cocoons which are nest-like structures. While the whole spa is beautiful, those are definitely the most special.
Where to eat on Naiyang beach?
Naiyang ain’t sleepy anymore, for better or worse (probably the latter). You will find plenty of beach restaurants and stalls right by the ocean as well as the little street running parallel. Most are nothing to write home about unfortunately.
Take the opportunity to do plenty of nothing and/or eat everything – in no apparent order. The Slate itself has four restaurants and if there is a place to splurge it is their Black Ginger restaurant.
Especially at night, it is super dramatic as you have to take a barge to get to the restaurant set in the middle of a small lake. Torches and dark wood add to the drama. The food is typical Phuket cuisine which you shouldn’t miss during a visit. Phuket was named “City of Gastronomy” by UNESCO last year, the first Asian city to receive this honor and it shows on the plates – this ain’t your typical Thai food.
They have some great tasting menus, reasonably priced that give you a fantastic variety of small portions to try.
Alternatively, you can head down to the main road and the beach. Sea Almond used to be one of my favorites, now it is just okay. The food is fine and they make a good Negroni, but have started to implement a 7% service fee which I find really confusing for a restaurant of this caliber.
Needless to say, this is a place you want to visit during sunset, a moment when the whole beach seems to slow down even more and all you hear are little gasps or shrieks of delights by photographers and kids still playing in the warm water alike. I didn’t call it the best beach in Phuket for nothing – and some guests and their cameras seem to agree with me.
If you want a less romantic and more lively atmosphere head to the main road. Here you will find plenty of street food vendors for a quick Pad Thai and some more seafood restaurants.
A Naiyang institution: Mr. Kobi Bar. Classic Thai food awaits on the beach in the second row with prices to match. To be very honest, it wasn’t the best when I went last time but the setting and prices make up for it.
The one place I really love, is Chern Cup Coffee. It is a little hipster coffee shop down the main road. To my delight, they also make really great matcha, and at 65 baht it is incredibly cheap. It doesn’t really invite to linger, but you can grab your drink and just head over to the beach to enjoy it with a view.
How to get to Naiyang Beach
The Phuket International Airport is less than 3 kilometers from Naiyang Beach though I wouldn’t recommend walking. You will be walking on a main road with no sidewalk – not ideal even if you don’t have a lot of luggage.
If you are traveling with someone I recommend you book a transfer with Welcome Pickups. Their service is incredible and makes arrival such a breeze especially if you are getting off an international flight and it might be late at night.
Book a transfer with Welcome Pickups
Get yourself a Sim Local eSIM – they have Unlimited eSIMs for Thailand with a truly generous fair usage policy (Use my code MIDNIGHTBLUE to get 5 % off and order your eSim here) before your flight so you can just turn it on once you land. This way you can easily get in touch with your driver via WhatsApp. Otherwise, there is decent airport wifi in Phuket.
Alternatively, you can now simply get a Grab at Phuket Airport. This is somewhat new as you previously had to walk out of the airport to find your Grab. Now they have their own kiosk between domestic and international arrivals. Prices are still higher than in Bangkok but a lot lower than the regular taxis. From Phuket Airport to Naiyang Beach you will pay about 200 baht.
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4 comments
You have such a unique way of capturing the essence of a place with your words and photography. I heard a few negative things about Phuket so it’s nice to find a lovely beach and the Slate is now on my hotel list. Thanks and continue having fun!
Thanks so much, Maya – that really means a lot! Yes, I was completely shocked when I first came to Phuket but I do like giving places a second chance to redeem themselves and for me this is definitely the place for it in Phuket.
This looks like paradise! We didn’t make it to the beaches/islands in Thailand on our first visit, but next time I definitely want to hit up a few places! I love that you have to take a barge to the restaurant – a whole little adventure just for dinner 🙂
Well, you don’t have to do the ‘barging’ yourself – they have staff for it 😉 But yes, it is super cool and feels very Indiana Jones…
I do hope that Thailand could convince you and that you come back – I am sure Phuket has great vegan dishes as well!