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I have a crush: Old Town Phuket! I came for the beaches and the scuba diving in Thailand but was immediately so charmed by the little historic town in the Mueang Phuket district that I extended my stay by 10 days.
You don’t have to stay that long but I recommended that once you have checked out the best beach in Phuket and taken a trip to Koh Phi Phi you head to the Old Town for a few nights. Take a stroll, take some pictures, and most importantly – eat!
FAvorite restaurants, cafes & places to stay in Phuket Old Town
Old Phuket Town History
Many think of the beach when it comes to Phuket but the Old Town has to offer quite a bit more thanks to its fascinating history. Tin mining was big in the area in the 1800s and brought an influx of workers from all over the world. Thanks to this mix of cultures you can still find a medley of cuisines, religions, and building styles in the area. Back in the day, the region was ruled by Portugal and Holland and the architecture became a mix of Western and Chinese influences known as Sino-Portuguese.
Today you will find temples, shrines, shophouses, and those Sino-Portuguese houses all around the Old Town of Phuket – whatever you do, don’t forget your camera!
While you are there you should check out the Thai Hua Museum and explore the houses and murals on Thalang Road, PhangNga Road, and Yaowarat Road as well as the most picturesque of them all – Soi Romanee. If you want to avoid the Instagram crowd, take a walk early in the morning when streets are still empty.
The Best Old Phuket Town restaurants
Phuket is known for its food and was previously awarded the title of “City of Gastronomy” by UNESCO – for good reason as I discovered. From fast to fancy there is something for every taste on the Old Town Phuket map when it comes to restaurants. Check places like the famous Blue Elephant restaurant for the most traditional Thai dishes and eat some crab curry with betel leaves and rice noodles, a specialty in southern Thailand.
Aroon Po Chana
Last night I dreamt about recommending the Massaman curry at Aroon Po Chana to someone. Considering that my last visit was over six weeks ago and I am currently in South Africa, this tells you just how often I think about it.
Aroon Po Chana is an institution. This Muslim restaurant in Phuket Old Town has been around forever and is primarily known for its rotis. Sweet rotis, savory rotis, charcoal rotis – it honestly doesn’t matter what kind you order, they have just the right amount of crisp and chewiness.
They also make a few other yummy dishes, such as the most delectable chicken Massaman curry. It is different from all the other Massaman curries you may have tried in Thailand, and while I missed the peanuts (they are blended in the sauce here), the sauce is so rich and fragrant, and the chicken is so juicy – yum. You can also order a small portion which to me was the perfect size for breakfast, with roti instead of rice of course.
And if you like drinking sweet stuff, go for their famous pulled tea.
Note: They have recently moved from their location in the center of Old Town to a site a little farther south. It is a little bigger now, but nothing has changed about their fabulous service and menu.
HEH
The motto of HEH couldn’t be simpler: good food, honestly prepared. It is a great spot if you are in the mood for something different than Thai. While Chef Oat is Thai, he has lived in Australia for over ten years and brings a distinct Australian flair to his plates.
The meat comes from Australia too, while fish and seafood are as local as it gets. All the dry-aging and processing is done in-house.
The menu is also deceptively simple, but they always supplement it with a comprehensive daily selection of wonderful dishes. The German in me had to order white asparagus with hollandaise and blue toil shrimp, and was so impressed. I also had a giant trevally ceviche with puffed rice and whipped squid ink. It offered restrained acidity (something usually too overpowering for me in a ceviche) and a fun mouthfeel thanks to the rice.
Oh, and they also have nice non-alcoholic drink options. I had a homemade lemonade that was perfection.
Local Canteen
If you want to eat proper Thai food in Phuket, you are spoiled for choice. That said, most places are cheap and cheerful or focus on perfecting one dish. Local Canteen bridges the gap perfectly if you want authentic Thai but a slightly elevated version in a modern restaurant setting.
Especially if you are a bit nervous about eating street food, you will probably appreciate their concept and their menu with pictures. And for anyone worried about the authenticity of the dishes, don’t be: the place was full of locals when I ate there.
The interior is modern and funky, and the staff is fast and friendly. Many beloved Thai classics get a little twist, like the delicious mini coconut pancakes, which were served with a shrimp curry topping or pad kra pao with wagyu and duck egg.
Another highlight for me: a great wine menu with interesting natural wines as well.
Chuan Chim
Chuan Chim was a Michelin recommendation and confirmed for me that I really don’t trust their street food endorsements. Now, don’t get me wrong – there is absolutely nothing wrong with Chuan Chim. While the service isn’t exactly friendly, they are efficient, and the food is great. However, they have two chefs and two woks and a huge menu. This means that the food takes forever.
Whether you are a fine dining or a small street-side restaurant, a 50-minute wait is not something I would do again. Even their lovely cat couldn’t make up for it…
That said, I had their pad kra pao with prawns which were juicy, cooked to perfection, and, of course, properly deveined. The portion was generous, too, and while it was overall a meal that would make me come back to try other things on the menu, I recommend you come really early if you want to try their food.
La Gaetana
More often than I like to admit, I crave a nice bowl of pasta. Usually, when my mood is somber or it is rainy outside. Both were the case during my last visit to Phuket Old Town. Just my luck that La Gaetana, Phuket’s premier Italian restaurant, was within walking distance of my hotel.
The restaurant is an institution and has been around for over 25 years. From the outside, it is as unpretentious as it gets, you have to pay attention so you don’t walk past! Inside, a few tables, a bar – also nothing to write home about. However, La Gaetana shines in service and food.
Now, if you are on a budget, it is probably not for you. They are, after all, known for their lobster pasta, and the rest of the dishes are also on the higher end. But I dare say, it is worth a splurge.
I went for pasta with botarga, which was everything I wanted in a pasta dish; alternatively, the pasta with fresh truffles looked amazing too. They also offer a trio of carpaccio, which I thought was a novel and fun idea. Just ask the chef or any of the staff what they recommend. I don’t think you can go wrong…
Tu Kab Khao
I decided to be daring and forgo my beloved yellow crab curry for a horseshoe crab egg curry with pineapple at Tu Kab Khao. I had only ever seen horseshoe crabs handed from one boat to another or at tiny market stalls but never in a restaurant. Since they look ancient and weird I was keen to try.
What I didn’t realize when I ordered was that the curry wasn’t made from horseshoe crab AND egg but from horseshoe crab eggs. I kept on looking for the crab meat amongst some pincers but couldn’t find anything but lots of tiny ‘balls’. Eventually, it did dawn on me that this must be the crab’s roe. Google informed me later that this is the main edible part of a horseshoe crab.
So how did it taste? Well, the curry overall was lovely, spicy, and sweet but the eggs themselves didn’t seem to add much to it and the texture was a bit meh.
Still, it is a fun place to go for a fancy dinner in Phuket Old Town and I am keen to try more from the menu.
Surf & Turf by soul kitchen
Surf & Turf is without a doubt one of the best restaurants in Phuket Old Town and perfect if you are looking for some modern, international dishes. The place is tiny so best make a reservation. The menu is also quite small and dishes are meant to be shared. When in doubt ask the waitress to help with the portion sizes.
They used to have a tuna pizza with tartare, which has now changed to tuna on a roti – both equally clever and delicious if you are bored by regular tuna tartare. I also ate the prawn dumplings in curry broth and coconut foam, as well as their prawn carpaccio, one of the yummiest dishes I have had in a while.
Funny enough, Chef Tom is German, so you will also find an Apfelschorle and, of course, a good Riesling on the drinks menu.
The Vegan Table
As the name implies, the Vegan Table is the place for vegan food in Phuket Old Town. They offer a variety of cuisines from Thai to pasta, pizza, and breakfast staples, all vegan of course. I had a quinoa wrap with amazing sweet potato fries which hit all the right spots as I was craving something fresh and healthy.
If you are looking for meat-free beef or chicken options, check out their burger selection – they look delicious though are a bit pricier than real meat.
Mee Ton Poe
Mee Ton Poe is an institution in Old Phuket Town and has been around for over 70 years. The little restaurant is probably most famous for their yummy Hokkien noodles that are served with pork, fishballs, prawns, and an egg on top. Mind you, their starters are also not to be missed if you are a fan of crispy crab wontons, and thanks to the affordable prices you can order both!
Sri The Shophouse
Sri is a little fancy cafe-restaurant in Phuket with a beautiful interior and a small shop for innovative souvenirs. Their bulldog Sugar is guarding the door but don’t be deterred as she is super friendly.
On the menu are sandwiches, burgers, and some sweet treats. I had a double beef burger with cheese which was too big to fit in my mouth but very yummy. Another highlight is their homemade sodas with flavors like lychee, peach, or raspberry.
Pun Te Phuket Food Center
I love street food but I know some people are a bit scared of it. This is where a place like Pun Te Phuket Food Center helps as it is basically a small but fancy hawker center in Phuket. Different stalls offer Thai food, dim sum, noodles, chicken rice, and some amazing crab curry for only 50 baht.
The staff will bring your food to your table once you have chosen your dish and paid for it, and this way you can mix and match your dishes from different vendors – portions are on the smaller side but inexpensive so you can try a few.
Dibuk Restaurant
Dibuk Restaurant offers an eclectic mix of French and Thai dishes, and an interior to match. You will feel like you have stepped into a vintage store or someone’s grandmother’s house… it is a bit odd, to say the least.
That said, the Thai food is great. I ate there twice and ordered the pineapple prawn curry as well as the spaghetti with Thai seafood sauce. Most of their dishes don’t cross the country borders but this one did and it was great. While I can’t speak for the French cuisine, I would definitely recommend Dibuk if you are in the mood for Thai in a bit of a fancier setting. Mind you, prices are on the higher side so keep that in mind.
O Cha Rot
When I discovered O Cha Rot, I didn’t realize I found a Phuket restaurant institution. I was simply in the mood for noodle soup for breakfast and since it was filled with locals and right across the street from my Airbnb I decided to try it.
They make one dish and one dish only: beef noodle soup. For your soup, you have the choice of beef balls, thinly sliced beef, and offal. In addition, you get to pick whether you want thin, medium, or big noodles.
The first two mornings I got the full monty, only later did I realize I could simply tell her not to give me any of the offal (sorry, not a fan!). On the tables, you will find all the condiments for your soup and I was actually grateful to have to share with a Thai family one time who advised me just to add it all.
After having breakfast there a few times I realized that they are actually mentioned in the Michelin and that the chef has been serving the same soup for over 30 years. Considering how often I ate there during my stay I won’t argue with Michelin in this case.
Juicy Lucy Burger and Bar
While I stayed next to Juicy Lucy I only discovered them by chance: it was raining and my dinner orders kept getting canceled. Eventually, I went next door to order a burger for take-away, and oh how happy was I that I did!
I like to declare their’s the best burger in Phuket. They are not fancy gourmet burgers but rather a bit McDonald-esque in the best way possible. They do a smash burger meaning the patties are quite thin (go for the double) with a very soft bun – everything you want in a burger. I also tried their fishburger and loved it, and their fries are some of the best I have had. Again, imagine McDonald’s fries but crispier!
(No picture as I only ordered take-out and I had to eat quickly once I got home)
Walking street market in front of China Inn Cafe Phuket
Every weekend there is the Sunday walking street market happening on Thalang Road. You can buy nicknacks and souvenirs, and most importantly food. There are plenty of vendors on the Old Town Phuket market to get snacks and Thai food from, with anything from sushi to sweets, deep-fried fish, sausage, and Pad Thai.
The Old Town Phuket opening times for the market are 16.00 – 22.00 on Sundays only and the road is closed for vehicles during that time.
Food Tour in Phuket Old Town
If you come to Phuket you’ll have to do a food tour. If you consider Phuket a beachy party destination with not much else to offer than Pad Thai and banana rotis, you are in for a big surprise.
Phuket was once lauded as a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2015 and this shows, especially in the Old Town. The best way to get a glimpse into its cuisine is with a food tour from A Chef’s Tour. After having done tours in Bangkok, Hanoi, and Kuala Lumpur with them, I was curious to see if they could show me something new and exciting in a town I have eaten in extensively over the years.
I should not have worried. They have two tours on offer: Baba Tastes, a morning tour, and Southern Flavours, a tour that runs into the evening. What I appreciated was that you will try multiple dishes at most restaurants so there isn’t too much running from one place to the next.
Our guide Cat was amazing and very enthusiastic making sure that we all ate so well even with someone eating halal and a vegetarian in our group. We tried the best hokkien mie noodles in town, got a lesson in Burmese cooking, tried pig ear in soup, had the best roti, and all shrieked in delight over the cutest Moo Deng dessert ever.
No hippo was harmed in the making/ eating of this dessert!
Old Town Phuket Cafes
In addition to many great restaurants, Old Phuket has an amazing array of coffee shops and cafes – if you are a pastry lover you have come to the right place. The same goes for coffee: cold brew, Aeropress, and anything in between is all the rage in Phuket.
I didn’t realize what a big coffee country Thailand had become until I got here and now I am happy to confirm that they can easily compete with the big boys.
Just a word of warning – most cafes in Phuket Old Town don’t open before 8 am or even 9 am. If you are searching for coffee before, you are out of luck.
Campus Coffee Roaster
I will just say it: Campus Coffee Roaster has the best coffee in all of Thailand. The setting is hip and cool, resembling an old school cafeteria. They have a few fancy coffees on the menu (think Starbucks meets Singapore Affogato) but to me, the highlight was their plain coffee which comes in 3 varieties. Perfect as you can choose your preferred acidity level, and since I like my coffee strong and dark but with as little acidity as possible I was delighted to realize that their classic blend is probably the best coffee I have ever had.
And yes, of course, you can buy a bag or two and have them grind it according to your coffee machine.
Note: Campus is currently closed for renovations, but they have a large takeaway window.
ROOF Pudding and Cafe
While the Danish I had at ROOF was a bit underwhelming the setting and the matcha at this Yaowarat cafe is just too cool to miss. Plus I love the name!
It looks like a mix of a club, a garden center, and a construction site and somehow still manages to be cozy – something all the people spending hours on their laptops would attest to.
Tera Boulanger
If you are looking for the best pastries in Phuket head to Tera Boulanger. While their croissants are ridiculously expensive, they are worth every cent and calorie. I was told that they are planning to have tables and coffee on-site soon but for now, it is just a counter full of flaky, buttery dough aka heaven and I am not complaining.
Ice Cream in PHuket
Torry’s is another institution and the go-to place for ice cream creations. It is located right on famous Soi Romanee, the Old Town’s prettiest road. With that said, don’t be deterred if you see quite a few people in front of Torry’s – chances are, they are just here to take pictures.
If they happen to be full and you don’t want to wait for a table you can always get some scoops for takeaway.
While the ice cream is good (I got guava sorbet and coconut pancake flavor), they do charge quite a bit thanks to their recent fame I presume but you will get a pretty Instagram in addition to your cup.
Cheaper and yummier is the ice cream at Thaivetro. While the location can’t compare to the charm of Torry’s I preferred their flavors. Especially the wasabi ice cream was unexpected and absolutely delicious.
Where to find good matcha in Phuket Old Town?
I am still a somewhat new matcha convert and was happy to see that it is not hard to find a good cup in Phuket Old Town.
For both – pure matcha and matcha latte shenanigans – I can recommend Mondo Espresso & Tea Bar and Matcha Therapy. The latter is especially cute as it is a flower shop/matcha bar.
Phuket Old Town Hotel & Accommodation
When it comes to hotels, there are a few nice options in town. From charming guesthouses to some more modern hotels, there is something for every taste and every budget.
Memory at the On On
Memory at the On On is a famous and the oldest hotel in Phuket Old Town. Day and night there is a steady line of tourists outside taking pictures. I thought this was because the hotel was a location in the movie The Beach. Alas, I was wrong. However, Leonardo di Caprio did stay here during its filming in Maya Bay. They still have his room full of memorabilia that you can rent.
I wasn’t keen to pay extra to stay in his used sheets (just kidding) so I went for a regular room. The hotel looks like a museum and is simply beautiful. Traditional Thai decor everywhere – you feel a bit like stepping into a mansion as well as back in time.
The staff is also one of a kind and just so very lovely. There is a small coffee shop/ wine bar/ eatery on the premises and they offer free snacks during the day.
Arco Hotel
I recently wanted to try a new hotel in Phuket Old Town and settled on the Arco Hotel, a few blocks south of all the town’s busyness. The hotel is modern and sleek, and having only recently opened, everything still feels really new and fresh.
They have a restaurant on site and a big pool – honestly, the booking.com pictures made it seem deceptively small. It is such a great size and offers a welcome respite when it gets hot.
Rooms are large and bright; again, everything is shiny and new. My aircon was a little loud, but that was my only complaint.
Service is through the roof and the staff is lovely and efficient. I also liked the hotel information provided in the rooms and the fact that towel animals are only available upon request (they scare me!).
97 Yaowarat
One of my favorite Airbnbs in Phuket Old Town used to be 97 Yaowarat, a beautiful traditional house thoughtfully furnished by a local architect. I spent quite a bit of time there during Covid and absolutely loved it.
That said, I cannot wholeheartedly recommend it anymore as the prices have skyrocketed in recent years. For an Airbnb without any hotel amenities like breakfast or walls to turn the loft into a better set-up for families, I think it has become too expensive.
That said, if you value character and charm over amenities and aren’t traveling on a budget, check it out.
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2 comments
Really nice article. Whenever I’m in Phuket, I always enjoy spending time in Phuket Town 🙏
Thanks, I am already planning my next trip 😉