This post contains affiliate links. If you book something through these links I get a small commission at no extra cost to you. You can read more about my disclosure and affiliate policy here.
…
Ever since I learned how to drive properly in the mountains of Lesotho I have loved the freedom that comes with being able to drive. Over the years road trips have become one of my preferred holiday activities, mode of transport, and general pastime.
Greece is one of my favorite places in Europe and if you headed to its biggest island, a Crete road trip is the best way to explore as much as possible. The scenery is stunning for both ocean and mountain lovers and there are so many beautiful far fletched corners to see – after all, there is almost 1000km of coastline to explore and plenty of mountains in between!
Head east from Heraklion along the coast, turn south, then west, and finally back up north to Chania to cover some of the best beaches in Crete, romantic mountain villages, and chic resort towns. Read on for my favorite places in Crete and some tips on what to do, where to stay, and of course what to eat in each of them!
The ultimate road trip in Crete
Table of Contents
Tips for your Crete Road Trip
Every time I plan a Crete road trip I use PANCAR, a car hire in Crete. Of course, all the big companies have a fleet on the island too but personally, I prefer supporting a local business whenever I can and their service immediately convinced me.
You can go to their car hire at Chania airport or their car hire at Heraklion airport, either way, you will be greeted by someone at arrivals who will hand you the keys and show you to your car. No lengthy ride to an office somewhere, no searching in a parking lot for the one lone car that will respond to your key. Personal service, quick and easy.
Of course, you also have the option to have your car delivered to your hotel or such.
Especially if you are looking for a low-cost car rental in Crete, I cannot recommend them enough as their prices are super competitive. And best of all: the longer you rent, the cheaper the daily rate is. The prices you see on the website include insurance and they offer roadside assistance as well. In order to hire a car in Crete from PANCAR you will need to be at least 21 years old for most car categories and have had your license for at least a year.
Getting around Crete
Driving in Crete is on the right side of the road. Most highways are well maintained with a speed limit of 110km/h and 120km/h, while there is a city limit of 50km/h and most roads outside allow 90km/h. Driving doesn’t get too crazy but chances are Cretans will want to overtake you at some point and it seems the local etiquette to move to the hard shoulder (which tends to be big enough). If you prefer to stick to your lane expect to have your ass kissed by the car behind you.
After chatting to an American friend of mine, I feel like I need to warn you: roads can be a bit smaller and more precarious than what you are used to. Often you will need to drive through tiny mountain villages and very windy roads. I think that is part of the fun but I guess it does take some getting used to it. Having a small car is definitely an advantage when driving in Crete and while some roads may look off-road-y chances are you won’t need a 4×4.
Remember that even when a distance isn’t too far according to Google Maps, those tiny roads take time and it may take you longer to get from A to B than expected. Also, make sure you get a car with AC – Crete is one of the warmest regions in Europe and it gets hot even in spring and fall.
You will usually see signs throughout that tell you when to expect the next petrol station. Most gas stations in Crete have petrol attendants who will fill up your car and clean your windows, and I was told that tipping is not expected.
Depending on how much time you have and what you are in the mood for, skip some or stay for a few more days. I have marked my favorites I think you shouldn’t miss on your Crete itinerary.
When is the best time for a Crete Road Trip?
That depends on how hot you like it – the summer months, June, July and August, can get boiling hot and it will be busy, especially after late June when the European summer school holidays start. May or September would probably be my preferred times.
During my last Crete visit, I came in mid-October, which somewhat clashed with the European autumn school holidays, but the weather was perfect for me. One thing to keep in mind—many coastal towns basically shut down after the end of October and don’t really open again until Easter the following year. While there is business as usual in Chania and Heraklion, you would have a hard time finding an open restaurant in most of the tourist places on this route.
The route for your Crete road trip
Heraklion
I usual start or end my road trip through Crete in Heraklion (also spelled Iraklio a lot so don’t be surprised), the capital of Crete. The city is probably best known for its Venetian Harbor (seems like all Cretan cities have one…) and the Palace of Knossos.
Where to stay: I stayed at the Infinity City Boutique Hotel in the old part of town. The location was great (only a 10-minute drive from the airport) but the hotel was a clear case of overselling their rooms with pretty pictures. Not bad but just not as cool as Booking made it looked.
Where to eat: Peskesi needs to get a special mention – they have an ultra-local, farm to table concept and I like it. They have dishes like ‘3 Cretan legumes’ and ‘young goat in yogurt’ and you can even do an olive oil tasting. While my pasta dish didn’t make my top 10 list, Peskesi it is worth a visit – make sure you reserve a table if you are looking to dine at a normal time (i.e. not like me who went for an early bird special).
To be very honest, I am not the biggest fan of Heraklion. If you want to skip the “big” city I recommend you head to Kokkini, which is only 9 km from the airport. In fact, it is so close that you will see an incredible amount of planes flying over your head.
Still, the place has typical beach town vibes with some nice stretches of beach and killer sunsets.
Where to stay in Kokkini: I stayed at Mira Living Concept which is a modern adult-only beach hotel perfect if you are on a budget. It might not be as chic as some other Crete design hotels, but the prices are incredibly low and they have a nice pool as well.
- Book a room at Mira Living Concept on Booking
Where to eat: There is a lovely little beach club not far, Nirou Terra, perfect for a healthier lunch option, or my Taverna Tzo for Greek classics and great pasta. I also spent an evening at the somewhat fancy Mykonaki and apparently the Pan Asian restaurant is a hit if you are craving some sushi.
Elounda
I had never heard of Elounda before and honestly, I picked it because of the Airbnb below. It seemed like the perfect start for my Crete road trip and seaside writer’s enclave. And it really was.
While the wind was howling for the first couple of nights, I quickly discovered the joys of having morning coffee on the beach, Cretan village wine for 2,70 EUR from the supermarket, and huge tubs of feta cheese. Or cheese as they call it in Crete.
While I didn’t eat out much I also appreciated the quirky decorations of the seafront restaurants in Elounda. A Corona masterpiece included.
What to do: Take a boat at the harbor to Spinalonga, the former leper colony and interesting historic part of Crete.
Where to stay: If you want it fancy and have a budget to match I recommend you book a room at Domes of Elounda.
Alternatively, check out Christina Boutique Studios Elounda where I stayed during my third visit to Elounda. The cute guesthouse is a short walk from the city center but right opposite the ocean – definitely splurge on a Seaview room here.
For a more humble traveler check out my Airbnb here – I really enjoyed staying there though I would definitely say it is not big enough for 4 people as advertised. Also, you will need to have some serious driving skills: the apartment is only accessible via a pedestrian road with steps or some very steep roads from the top.
Where to eat: I had an amazing seafood platter at Poulis Restaurant. I love how Cretans always make me feel so welcome even as a solo traveler dining alone! For lunch, I recommend Praktoreio which apparently has the best gyros in Elounda.
Plaka Beach
Plaka is worth a visit if only for its beach. You can find accommodation there or you can do a day trip from Elounda, the drive is less than 10 minutes. This beach in east Crete is a beauty and perfect for some serious swimming.
Mind you, you will have to work for your slice of paradise as it is also full of pebbles (though I am honestly not sure if these rocks can still be called pebbles). You will need a sun lounger and getting into the water is precarious.
Luckily there are 2 restaurants on the beach, Isla bistrot and Ostria Taverna, that offer free loungers if you eat or drink there. I was ambushed by an overly friendly waiter and ended up at Isla bistrot, ordering horrible tacos as my first meal back in Crete. In hindsight I should have known that no, the tuna would not be fresh, and the tacos would not be soft, and there would be sweet chili sauce all over my plate…. oh well, I dare say, the views still made up for the horrible meal but I recommend you try the taverna as it can only be better!
Kato Zakros
How I came across Kato Zakros I don’t actually remember. It must have been my Airbnb and even when I arrived I was confused: there were no shops, no kiosk, no supermarket – since I had a car, I didn’t mind, I had arrived in paradise. All there is, is the beachfront, some tavernas, and a vibe. A really good vibe.
Tip: When coming from Elounda enjoy the very scenic drive and stop at the location of former Koukouvapi Cafe after Mochlos. While the cafe has unfortunately closed, the views are still absolutely stunning and it makes for a great halfway stop!
As part of the Sitia UNESCO Global Geopark, Kato Zakros has views for days. Fig and olive trees, pomegranates and prickly pears, and even the occasional banana tree overlook the bay, and sometimes you can hear the faint tingle of a goat and her bell.
The place is for nature lovers and those looking for solitude, holidaymakers with campervans, and hikers. The Gorge of the Dead is famous in the area as are the relicts of a Minoan Palace.
You will definitely need a car to get here and to go to Zarkos, a tiny town 15-minutes by car where you will find shops, a gas station, and the somewhat famous Zakros’ Natural History Museum.
Other than that there is not much to do in Kato Zakros and that’s exactly why people come here. Go for a walk or drive to enjoy the scenery, go swimming (mind the slippery stones when you walk into the water!), and make sure to get up for sunset at least once – it is a beauty.
Where to stay: I stayed at Little Blue which quickly became one of my favorite Airbnb/ home substitutes of all times. It is tiny but mighty, has amazing views over the area, and is the perfect refuge for a modern-day hermit (even the wifi is great!).
You can either book through Airbnb or contact Maria the owner directly on their Facebook page. Expect to book far in advance – the secret is unfortunately out that this is one of the best places to stay in the east of Crete!
If you wanted it a tiny bit fancier I suggest you check out Yiannis Retreat which came highly recommended and looked absolutely lovely.
Makris Gialos
How I came across Makry Gialos I don’t quite remember (which seems to be a common thread in the Crete road trip…). I think I wanted some more beach and a bit more entertainment coming from Kato Zakros. Mind you, to be honest, I was also quite desperate as I wanted to extend my stay but Tiny House was booked. So Makry Gialos it was…
While I ended up spending most of my time indoors working, it is a somewhat busy seaside resort and was probably one of the busiest places I encountered in the east of Crete this time around. Limanaki Beach and the harbor are lined with eateries and sun loungers and the bay is actually one of the easier places to swim as the sand leads all the way in.
Where to stay Makry Gialos: I stayed at Cybele Apartments a little further west, which is a great option if you are looking for a self-catering apartment. From there you can take a quick stroll to another beach which is a lot less busy. George’s Taverna looks good for a bite to eat but if you prefer to cook on your own, there are plenty of supermarkets around.
- Check out apartments at Cybele on Booking
Ierapetra
I added a 2 night stop in Ierapetra, a favorite for many in the south of Crete. If you want a bit of proper city life, this is a great little coastal town but if you want peace & quiet it might not be the place for you.
While I was there in August, Crete was showing record temperatures, and to be honest, I had to hide in my somewhat air conned room most of the day.
If you are coming at any other time, I recommend you take a trip to Crissi island which is said to have one of the most beautiful beaches in Crete. There are plenty of boat operators that will take you there but since the island doesn’t offer any shade I decided that it was simply too hot to go.
If you want to cool off while in Ierapetra there are a few city beaches you can go to. Take a stroll along the promenade to the west beach where the locals will meet in the morning for a chat in the ocean. There are plenty of sun loungers and umbrellas you can rent.
Where to stay in Ierapetra: I stayed at the Cretan Villa Hotel in the city center which turned out to be a great choice. The only downside? They don’t offer breakfast or coffee on the property and the rooms didn’t even have a kettle. This means you will need to venture out to get your caffeine fix in the morning and unfortunately, most cafes don’t open until 8 am (way too late for me!).
If you wanted to stay at a fancy resort, check out the newly opened NUMO just outside of town.
Where to eat in Ierapetra: While I was there I was in the mood for something non-Greek so I ended up at Casablanca twice. The restaurant has a nice shaded backyard and is only a few meters from the Cretan Villas. It is the perfect place for a great cocktail and some international favorites: burgers, bao buns, bowls. I ended up eating the Ceasar sandwich twice it was so good!
I also had dinner at Vira Potzi at the end of the promenade and it was lovely. I discovered my love for fresh sardines and the eggplant mille-feuille was also delicious. They have a resident turtle that comes around in the evenings to eat squid guts from the restaurant – definitely a highlight!
Keratokampos
How I ended up in Keratokampos during my Crete road trip I also don’t know. I think I was looking for an affordable Airbnb on my way from Ierapetra to Kalamaki and came across the Anemos Cottages which looked lovely. What started as a coincidence became one of my favorite places in Crete! The whole area reminded me of family holidays back in the day when you don’t do anything but hang out on the beach, walk around barefoot, read and do absolutely nothing. For some reason, I immediately fell in love with it.
There are different beaches in the area: Listis is apparently one of the best beaches in Crete, however, you will need some good shoes to get down. My favorite was the beach next to the little seaport as it was never too crowded, had lots of parking spots and easy access to get in the water.
Where to stay in Keratokampos: I stayed at Levantes GardenHouse part of Anemos Cottages and it was lovely. The cottage is tiny but has everything you need including a well-equipped kitchen, great AC, and wifi. You can stay there with 2 people but you must really like each other because it is that small. However, Lefteris and his family have a few other options on the property if you need more space.
You sleep surrounded by olive trees and the ocean is 50 m away. To get to the town where the shops and tavernas are it is about 1,5 km.
Where to eat in Keratokampos: I didn’t eat out during my stay but cooked at home. There are 2 mini-markets where you can buy groceries and best of all a fishmonger to buy fish fresh off the boat.
Kalamaki
Kalamaki is a typical Cretan seaside town where I stayed for 4 nights. In hindsight I would cut this visit a little shorter – it is one of those places that are perfectly fine but nothing to write home about either. The beach is nice enough but during the summer it can get quite busy and in the afternoon the wind hits, making it a bit sandy, to say the least.
Where to stay in Kalamaki: I stayed at Kiklamino which was nice enough for a few nights. The owners are the sweetest and they have a nice shaded breakfast/ sitting area and a variety of rooms and apartments. You don’t have a front-row beach view but the walk to the promenade is only 5 minutes. The one downside for me: at least on the second floor where my room was the wifi was incredibly bad.
- Check out rooms at Kiklamino on Booking
Where to eat in Kalamaki: I cooked most of the days while I was there as there was a well-stocked supermarket and a bakery in town. I did however eat at Avra twice and it was lovely. You are a bit away from the masses, have a great view over the ocean, the staff is lovely and the food is simple and good.
In the area, you can visit some more traditional villages like Kamilari or Pitsidia. I took a little road trip to Matala which is about a 15-minute drive from Kalamaki.
Matala has an interesting history: apparently, this was the place where Zeus disguised as a bull landed with Europa whom he had kidnapped. What you can still see today are some neolithic caves where people used to live. Those caves had a revival in the 60s when the town became home to a hippie commune with illustrious residents like Joni Mitchell.
To say Matala is still a hippie town these days would be an overstatement but colorful murals with a mix of Spongebob and peace signs like to remind the tourists of the town’s past. Matala beach itself is stunning and you can still visit the caves today. I recommend you come super early to snatch a parking spot right on the beach (it is 3 Euro for the whole day) and play in the waves for a bit. Go for lunch and have some more sardines at Two Brothers and leave right after when it gets too crowded.
Chora Sfakion
Oh Chora Sfakion! Chora or Hora Sfakion was one of the places I visited during my very first Crete trip and where I first went diving. I remember being utterly charmed by the tiny seaside town in the south which is part of the Chania region. Mind you, I didn’t visit in high season and only came for a day trip so this time I was in for a bit of a rude awakening. That is not to say that Chor Sfakion isn’t worth a visit because it absolutely is but it is tiny and gets super crowded in the summer.
If you have a rental car make sure to arrive either really early or really late or book a hotel that offers designated parking spots. I did none of the above which resulted in a frantic search for a parking space in the midday heat for an hour.
Other than no parking, the town does have 2 small cute beaches: the one by the promenade has free sun loungers and umbrellas, Vrisi beach in the west is a bit nicer for swimming but sun loungers will set you back 3 Euro. There is also a dive center down by the harbor and a small marina – if you have a boat, this is the place for you!
Where to stay in Chora Sfakion: I stayed at Hotel Alkyon which had an awesome location right by the little promenade. They don’t have private parking but will give you a card for your car so you don’t have to pay for parking around town. My room was super basic but clean and had a great view over the bay. I didn’t like the staff very much to be honest but the rather inexpensive rate, great wifi, and aircon made up for it. If you wanted to upgrade I recommend booking a room at Samaria by the Sea.
Where to eat in Chora Sfakion: There are only a few restaurants in Hora Sfakion so I dare say you can try them all if you are staying for a couple of nights. I loved Kitchen Stories and Girogiali Grill House for a quick and cheap gyros pita. Definitely head to Ntourountous bakery because a) they open at 7 am so you can get coffee, b) they make incredible traditional rusks and cookies, and c) their bougatsa is the best I have had in Greece!
A worthwhile trip is Loutro an even tinier village a 20-minute boat ride away – in low season that is. Loutro used to be a quaint fishing village with some of the clearest, bluest water in Crete, alas it gets crowded here quite quickly. From Sfakion you can either take a ferry-boat there (roundtrip 10-12 Euros) or a private taxi boat which will set you back 35 Euro one way for up to 4 people.
I recon Loutro is worth the trip if you come in low season and/or are with a small group so you can get your own boat and determine when you want to come and go – I’d go really early in the morning, grab a sun lounger for a few hours, get an early lunch and head back when it gets crowded.
Kissamos
As you can see, my Crete road trips tend to focus on the east side of the island. I just love it there. That said, some of Crete’s best beaches are on the west coast, and so I decided to check out the area during my most recent trip.
You can base yourself in Chania and take day trips from there, but to be a bit closer, you can also stay in Kissamos, a little further west. To be honest, I didn’t love the hotels in Kissamos, so I decided to stay at Cabanon Concrete Retreat. These tiny homes are located about 15 minutes from Kissamos, surrounded by an olive grove, and are simply beautiful.
What to do: Explore the beaches in the vicinity, like Falassarna, Balos, and even Elafonisi.
Where to eat: I didn’t eat in Kissamos, but got supplies from the supermarket and the fishmonger instead. There are some eateries by the promenade, though, and in the center of town. Alternatively, Cabananon offers a local care package with all the supplies you will need for a short stay and a suitcase-minibar full of regional wine.
Tip: When heading to Chania, I recommend you take a detour to the Botanical Garden of Crete. The place is stunning and has an amazing farm-to-table restaurant with seasonal delights.
Chania
From Chora Sfakion head up to Chania city, the former capital of Crete. You will cross through the White Mountains and the drive is nothing short of stunning. You may encounter some sheep-induced traffic jam but that is all part of the appeal of the Crete geography in the mountains!
In and around the city there is so much to do and see that I have written a whole Chania itinerary which you can find below – it is well worth it to spend a few days here as Chania is also a great starting point to explore the beaches on the west coast of the island including Balos, which many say is the best beach in Crete.
There is so much to do and see in Chania (both the city and the region) that I have written an entire post about it.
Where to stay: If it is your first time, I recommend you settle down smack bang in the middle of the old city. There are plenty of awesome little boutique hotels in Chania to choose from.
I recommend J&G Suites as it honestly is one of the best places to stay in Crete. The building is old but beautifully rennovated, the location is incredible, and owner Greg is one of the nicest. There is also a car park just around the corner.
Where to eat in Chania: Oh where not to eat… Chania is one of my favorite places for Cretan food as there are so many great options that go far beyond your typical Greek taverna food. I am working on a Chania foodie guide – in the meanwhile head to Salis and thank me later!
Usually, you can catch a flight back from Chania. If you have booked a roundtrip to and from Heraklion don’t worry the drive from Chania is only 2 hours. You can either make an overnight pitstop in beautiful Rethymno or have lunch and a dip at Vythos Beach Bar at the halfway mark. The bay is shallow and calm, looks perfect for snorkeling, and the water was a lot warmer than in the south. There is a restaurant and as per usual you can use the sun loungers for free if you buy food or drinks there.
Pin for Later!
2 comments
This post makes me want to pack my bags and fly away! I’ve been to create twice as a child, but we stuck to the south west, palaeochora & surroundings. I can’t wait to go back one day and see everything you’ve mentioned here!!
Haha, glad to hear it! I had no idea that you went to Crete when you were little – such nice memories I am sure. Would be fun for you to return and see it with ‘grown up’ eyes.