Guide for a cool city weekend in Thessaloniki.

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For many, myself included, the perfect holiday offers a combination of beach & city. This goes for a trip to Greece too but for some reason, many think that Athens is the only option for the city part of their holiday. Not true, I learned upon my first trip to Greece many years ago – I was going to spend a weekend in Thessaloniki and the nearby beaches, and with good reason as it turned out.

Is Thessaloniki worth visiting? Oh yeah! What Skipper is to Barbie, Thessaloniki is to Athens. Smaller, cooler, and actually a bit more stylish. Thessaloniki is gritty in the best way possible and has become the place in Greece for innovative cuisine, art, and culture that is not necessarily centuries old.

That said, the city was founded in 315 BC so friends of ancient history and archeology will have plenty to explore too. In addition, many students call Thessaloniki home and there is a vibrant art and food scene to dive into.

How to Spend a Weekend in Thessaloniki

Sightseeing Thessaloniki 

There are plenty of religious and historic sites that should be on your Thessaloniki itinerary. This includes a Roman forum and the Church of Saint Demetrius dedicated to the patron saint of Thessaloniki, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is also the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, the Museum of Byzantine Culture, and the Atatürk Museum as the founder of modern Turkey was born in Thessaloniki. 

There is plenty to see everywhere and best of all there are even free walking tours in Thessaloniki. Alternatively, you can book a city tour geared towards what interests you most or take the Hop-On Hop-Off bus that stops at the most important sights. 

Ana Poli

What to do in Thessaloniki for 3 days? A visit to the Ana Poli is a must. Ana Poli actually means “upper town” as it is built on the hill. But it is also the old town as this part of Thessaloniki was untouched by the Great Thessaloniki Fire of 1917. 

There are plenty of sights and viewpoints like the Heptapyrgion, a fortress from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. From there you also have a 360° panorama over the city and can even see Mount Olympus on a clear day! Other great places include the Vlatadon Monastery, the Byzantine Bath, the Church of Saint Nicholas Orphanos, and the Tower of Alyseos.

Make sure to wear solid shoes as some roads are cobblestoned and slippery and many are connected by steep staircases. I also advise you to take some water and time your trip well. You want to make sure to get there on a sunny day so Thessaloniki is not hidden under a cloud but come early morning or late in the afternoon as it gets too hot otherwise. 

MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY & PORT

A highlight for art lovers and those who appreciate industrial design is the Port of Thessaloniki and the Museum of Photography, the MOMus. The port itself charms with exposed bricks, urban art, and industrial chic that has gotten new life here. Even the people live up to the setting – if you are not a hipster you are not allowed in…or so it seems.

After a visit to the museum, you can either chill by the water where you can find plenty of hip benches, or get a coffee at Kitchen Bar. To be honest, I think it has gotten a bit too popular for its own good as it was incredibly crowded while I was there and the service was super slow. However, the setting right by the water’s edge is stunning – even on a gloomy day.

White Tower

Head in the other direction along the promenade and you will get to the White Tower and the Umbrellas by Zongolopoulos. Both are landmarks of Thessaloniki though they couldn’t be more different. Then again, that seems to be a common theme in Thessaloniki – nothing quite fits together, making for an exciting city of contrasts.

The White Tower isn’t white but you won’t be able to miss it on your walk. And you can count yourself lucky as it isn’t covered in blood anymore, a common sight back in the day when it functioned as a prison and execution ground. Today it is home to an interactive museum telling the history of Thessaloniki and its importance in the region.

THE UMBRELLAS BY ZONGOLOPOULOS

A little further on you can wave hello to the statue of Alexander the Great before you will find the Umbrellas. Again, you can’t miss them – they are huge! By now they are over 20 years old as Zongolopoulos created the “Umbrellas of Thessaloniki” in 1995 when Thessaloniki was the European Capital of Culture.

There is not much else to do there but to me, they are one of my favorite pieces of art in a public space and a sight to behold, rain or shine. Should you not want to walk that far, you can also take a boat along the waterfront.

For more art, all you have to do is take a walk – Thessaloniki is full of graffiti and street-art.

Beaches in Thessaloniki

There are no beaches directly in Thessaloniki but if you fancy a dip after your promenade walk you won’t have to drive far. There are plenty of beaches in the vicinity though locals agree that the best place is Epanomi, 25 kilometers south of Thessaloniki. It is even awarded with a Blue Flag. There are others as well though if you are in it for a proper beach holiday I recommend you head to Halkidiki afterward. There are some stunning resorts and beaches on the “fingers” which you can easily reach from Thessaloniki either with a rental car or by bus. 

Read more: Where to stay at Halkidiki – the best resorts

Otherwise, head over to Kavala less than 2 hours by car. After checking out this interesting historic gem you can take the ferry to Thassos – one of the most beautiful islands in Greece. It is known for its marble quarry and snow-white marble-dust beach. 

Read more:

Take a trip to Kavala, Greece

The most beautiful Greek Island – Thassos

Shopping in Thessaloniki

Yes, there are some nice shops in Thessaloniki as well though I wouldn’t plan a trip specifically to go shopping there. That said, there are quite a few touristy boutiques with great local products – my favorite is Olicatessen and Ergon Agora. 

Cool souvenirs from Greece & where to get them

I am also a huge fan of Korres products which you can get at every pharmacy in Thessaloniki. And of course, there is the usual number of H&M, Zara, etc. Keep in mind this being Greece, most shops are closed on Sundays and on public holidays!

A great experience is the Kapani market especially if you like food and produce. Book a market tour here.

Food in Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is one of my favorite cities to eat in. So much so, that I have finally put together a post with my top restaurants in Thessaloniki. 

Read more: The best restaurants in Thessaloniki

Since the city is a multicultural hub you can see that reflected in the food. But obviously, you can also find some seriously good Greek dishes in the city. Whether you want fish or seafood, souvlaki, a classic Greek salad, or pulse dishes like fava bean puree. Quick or leisurely, cheap or high-end – there are so many options to eat in Thessaloniki.

I would definitely recommend a food or market tour as well as a trip to Ladadika, a great place for a lively local dinner. There are also plenty of modern Greek dining venues, some of the best with Cretan influences that you can find on my restaurant list. 

The best hotels in Thessaloniki

The Modernist

There are plenty of accommodations to choose from, but for me, the best hotel in Thessaloniki is the Modernist. Located right by Aristotelous Square in the city center, the Modernist is a chic urban, small luxury hotel in Thessaloniki, located in a heritage building from the 20s.

I have stayed there a few times now and think it is the quintessential cool boutique hotel: central, sleek, and with all the amenities, you may need during your stay including the most awesome staff. The kind of staff that will recognize you when you return after a two year hiatus and give you a big hug. 

The rooms are modern and stylish and come in a variety of sizes with a mix of art deco, mid-century detailing, and Danish design as they like to call it themselves. In the rooms are comfortable beds, Marshall speakers, a Nespresso machine, and a small balcony. They also have a minibar with local craft beers, snacks, and what I loved – pre-made cocktails in a bottle. All at prices that are more than okay for a minibar. You get unlimited bottles of water daily and as many Nespresso pods as you need – not a given as I discovered later on my Greece trip.

While there is no restaurant or bar on-site you are within walking distance from many Thessaloniki restaurants and cafes. They also have a room service menu in collaboration with some great eateries in the neighborhood – amazing pizza, baos, profiteroles, and a selection of vegan dishes from Roots. And they have recently opened the Modernist cafe next door where you can get coffee, cocktails, and a few snacks.

Complimentary breakfast is served in the rooftop terrace cafe and it quickly became my favorite meal of the day. That says a lot as I am usually not a big breakfast person! The buffet is tiny but mighty and the service was incredibly friendly which says something as service in Greece is generally quite hospitable.

Great coffee, small glass bottles with freshly squeezed orange juice, and a selection of savory and sweet pastries, cold cuts, and eggs made to order are available. The bougatsa, a Thessaloniki specialty from a local bakery, is my favorite – it is basically a sweet cheese pie with cinnamon and sugar and worth every sinful bite. They always introduce something new and seasonal, but do make sure that guest favorites like the bougatsa stay.  

Best of all? The price! While the Modernist is a 4-star hotel in Thessaloniki, the rates are definitely on the budget side – perfect for a bit of luxury for a small wallet.

• Find a room at The Modernist: Booking / Agoda

The Trilogy House

During one of my visits, I was dismayed to find out that the Modernist didn’t have a room for me for all my days. Thessaloniki is busy in the fall! So I looked for alternative options and started checking Airbnb Thessaloniki. Alas, the prices were almost the same as a hotel room and I knew I wasn’t going to use kitchen facilities or such. So I settled on the Trilogy House, a place I had been eyeing before. 

I guess it can best be described as an apartment hotel though my apartment only had a room and a bathroom. They do have some suites as well with a living area. Trilogy House is located in the center of town in an old apartment building. There is a communal room with a water dispenser and some local art though if you prefer a proper reception and a space to mingle this won’t be for you. 

If you don’t mind being on your own, it is a great place. Rooms/ apartments are well designed though some may object that peeling wall paint is not design. I liked it! 

By the way, check-in works via a lock with your keycard – easy and a great option even if you are arriving late. That said, there is no elevator in the building and the staircase is quite narrow. Keep that in mind if you have a lot of luggage or limited mobility. 

• Find an apartment at the Trilogy House: Booking / Agoda

Zeus is Loose

If you are looking for a cool hostel in Thessaloniki check Zeus is Loose. After my horrible hostel experience in Athens, I did not stay there but would in the future as they came recommended by the Modernist. 

They are fairly new and offer dorms and private rooms with grand views and a lovely rooftop bar/cafe. They also get the brownie points for the name!

• Find a bed at Zeus is Loose: Booking / Agoda

Tips for your weekend in Thessaloniki

How to get to Thessaloniki?

Thessaloniki has its own international airport, the Thessaloniki Airport Makedonia with code SKG. It is south of the city and approximately 15 km from Aristotelous Square in the center of town. Depending on the season you may find a direct flight from another European metropolis or have to do a layover in Athens. 

There are currently no direct flights from the US to Thessaloniki. I would recommend you book with Turkish Airlines and plan a stopover in lovely Istanbul. 

How to get to/from Thessaloniki airport?

Most visitors will use the 01X bus to and from the airport. It takes about an hour from/ to Aristotles Square and costs 1,80 euros and half for children/ students.

If you have a lot of luggage or want to find your feet in a foreign city first I recommend booking a transfer with Welcome Pickups. I have used them a few times now and love their service. You book and pay your transfer online and get connected with your driver once your arrival approaches. The driver will monitor your flight and you can be in touch with them via WhatsApp. Once you have arrived they will wait for you with a name sign and take you to the city. Best of all – you won’t need to worry about cash or payment as this is all sorted beforehand. And as far as prices go, it is not more than a regular taxi!

• Book: Airport transfer with Welcome Pickups

How to get around Thessaloniki?

Thessaloniki has a pretty good bus network (you can see a bus map of Thessaloniki here) and finally a metro too. It finally started running after construction had to stop due to the finding of historical sights.

Still, the bus is also easy and cheap. Bus 22 will take you to the Ana Poli. Don’t be surprised – since the streets are so narrow, it is basically a minivan. Tickets are 0,90 Euro and you can buy all your tickets at the newspaper kiosks around town. Some busses do have vending machines but I found the kiosks the easiest option. 

If you want to do sightseeing you can also choose the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus. It even goes up to the Ana Poli though obviously not through the tiny streets the regular busses go. That said, I would recommend you only get a ticket if you will use it for a whole day of sightseeing as it is quite a bit pricier than a regular bus. 

For longer distances, you can also use a metered taxi or download the FreeNow or Uber app. Even in a taxi you can pay by card and will always get a receipt.

Money

Thessaloniki is part of Greece, Greece is part of the EU, and thus Euro is the currency. As with most cities, credit cards are accepted in many places these days but in small cafes, kiosks, and shops cash is still king.

I think the easiest way to get cash is to use your credit card at an ATM. If you go to Piraeus Bank or such you will usually pay 2 Euro as a withdrawal fee.

Tip: Avoid the Euronet ATMs that are notorious in Europe for their crazy fees. 

When is the best time to visit Thessaloniki?

Thessaloniki has a Mediterranean climate which means hot summers and dry cool winters. July is usually the hottest month and January is the coldest.

Personally, I would never travel to Greece during summer. I did during Covid but those were obviously special circumstances – now that travel is back, it gets way too crowded, and even for me it is too hot. I would recommend late September or May. Check school holidays in other European countries to avoid rising prices and bigger crowds. 

If you come during spring make sure to check the dates for Easter and Orthodox Easter as it is celebrated in Greece. They are not the same but may both affect your travel planning. 

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