A Foodie’s Guide to the Best Restaurants in Essaouira, Morocco.

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If you are traveling to Morocco, especially for the first time, chances are Essaouira has made its way on your Moroccan itinerary. The Atlantic seaside town is touristic but oh so charming. 

You can either visit Essaouira on a guided tour from Marrakech but I recommend you stay a few days. Where to eat? I’ve got you covered and share some of the best restaurants in Essaouira with you below as well some general tips for your foodie adventure.

What to eat in Essaouira? 

Of course, you will find all your Moroccan classics in Essaouria: tagine, couscous, harissa, msemen, and such. But Essaouira is a port city and the culinary highlights are definitely fresh fish and seafood. 

Eating freshly shucked oysters right by the port for less than a euro during my Moroccan Women’s Adventure will forever be one of my favorite memories. As well as feeding countless cats with little fish bits. Essouira cats are the best and they are not fat and shiny for no reason! 

So, yes, fish and seafood are the things to eat in Essaouira. Small sweet shrimps and whole lobsters, sardines, octopus, and crab as well as a whole assortment of different Atlantic fishes. 

A culinary highlight in the Essaouira region is also the famous argan oil. This is used either as a beauty product or roasted for cooking. It is incredibly delicious with a nutty flavor. Made from argan nuts, oil, and honey is amlou also called Berber Nutella. It is often used in desserts or most famously as a spread on a crepe. You can find vendors everywhere in Essaouira. Unlike Nutella, it is not as sweet and you almost feel you are eating something healthy… 

Another highlight especially if you come during the winter months of January and February: mountains of strawberries! You will see many carts selling them on Avenue Mohamed Zerktouni and Ave Al Massira Al Khadra. Here you can also find other produce like avocados (the main season is November to March), cactus fruit in the late summer, and of course oranges almost all year long. 

Where to find all these delights? Here are some of my favorite restaurants and cafes in Essaouira.

My favorite cafes & Restaurants in Essaouira, Morocco

There is no shortcoming of restaurants in Essaouira but as you know I only like to recommend places I have tried and tested myself, preferably more than once. After my most recent trip, I put together this list of my favorite Essaouira restaurants. 

Keep in mind that a lot of places in Morocco do not serve alcohol. If that is important to you, inquire before. If you want to stock up for your hotel fridge head to the Essaouira Alcohol Liquor Store if you don’t have a car to go to Carrefour or such. It is unassuming, to say the least, but has a decent selection of Moroccan wines, and the salespeople are lovely. 

Here are my other favorite Essouira restaurants in no particular order: 

Fishburger

“You have to go to Fishburger,” my Moroccan friend texted me before coming to Essaouira. I thought I had misread as in “You have to get a fish burger” but no, Fishburger is the name of a new restaurant in Essaouira. They sell, as you can guess, fish burgers. 

I went on my very first day and wow, Essaouira has been waiting for a restaurant like this! That said, it isn’t really a restaurant but rather a few tables on the street next to the Skala wall and a tiny kitchen where the ladies are making magic. That said, they have recently expanded because I guess I am on the only fan.

On the menu are various fish burgers as well as some seafood-related tapas. I started with their recommended sardine patty burger and sardine croquettes. Especially when it came to the burger I was hesitant because for some reason I pictured a sardine patty as dry and boring. It was anything but. The burger had two patties which were – sorry – moist and so well seasoned. The croquettes were super crunchy and thanks to some extra cheese nice and gooey on the inside. 

I returned once more to try deep-fried octopus bits and a deep-fried fish burger which were also delicious.

Retro Corner 

Can you believe I’d ever rave about an omelet? Me neither but here we are. I was in the mood for coffee, eggs, avocado, and a space to work. There aren’t many options, Essaouira is in serious need of some coworking cafes. Until then, there is Retro Corner.

What a gem. Cute, of course retro interior, friendly service who not only welcomed me and my laptop but quickly went to sort out the wifi without me even asking. I ordered tea as well as an omelet with mozzarella and tomato. I also asked for some avo on the side as well as a harcha. For some odd reason I never considered harcha until now and they are amazing. They are small griddle-cooked semolina flatbreads which are a bit crunchy and fluffy at the same time and goes great with sweet or savory. 

But back to the omelet. Omelets are an okay breakfast food. To me, they are nothing to write home about, and for years I have refused to try the crab omelet from Jay Fai in Bangkok because I don’t think an omelet could ever be worth $20. 

I may need to reconsider because the omelet at Retro Corner was incredible. And only $3 I should add! It was light, fluffy, and neither runny nor dry. They used tomato to infuse the eggs somehow and there was plenty of cheese and some basil – I don’t know how they made it but here I am still raving about that omelet. If you are looking for the best breakfast in Essaouira, go! 

It was also insanely cheap – I paid 50 dirhams altogether as they didn’t even charge me extra for my avocado. 

Umia

If you looking for fine dining in Essaouira, Umia is the closest you will get. You won’t be able to compare it to proper fine dining restaurants but overall it is a lovely place to eat. 

It is located in a bit of an awkward spot right next to the Skala which means your view is a big wall. Still, at night it gets cosy thanks to a cool Moroccan interior and plenty of candles. The service is a bit too French for my liking, and a tad bit too snooty but at least they don’t charge a mandatory service charge like so many others.

The menu hard to describe – local ingredients, a bit French, a bit Italian with a huge array of starters or sharing plates and only a handful of mains. To be honest, I was in the mood to splurge but the prices are wild especially compared with the rest of the Essaouira meals I had. For a starter you will pay 150 dirhams on average, all the mains are 250 dirhams. 

Unfortunately, they were out of crab rolls that I had been eyeing so I went for the Vitello Tonato, admittedly a good but boring choice. I also had spinach gnocchi in gorgonzola sauce with walnuts and some kind of crumble which were wonderful and unique. 

Unlike in previous years they finally have their liquor license though the wine list and cocktail menu are a bit tame. That said if you are looking for a romantic restaurant in Essaouira or somewhere to take your dad (I did!), Umia is a great choice.

Mandala Society

Mandala Society is a beloved Essaouira cafe with a branch in Marrakech. As the name implies, it is health-conscious and vegan-friendly. This includes not just turmeric lattes but organic food in general. 

I first came across Mandala while looking for a good matcha in Essaouira. They delivered. That said, they are mostly known for great coffee, fair trade, of course. 

The food menu offers a nice mix of healthy bowls and decadent classics with a twist. Think poached egg on brioche with hollandaise, grilled halloumi, and sautéed mushrooms, or banana bread with carob chocolate bread and caramelized bananas. 

Most of their food is vegetarian, with many vegan options, but they also offer some fish and seafood. 

There are a few tables outside, perfect for people watching, as well as comfy couches inside. Unfortunately/ fortunately, laptops are only allowed at their window counters. 

Silvestro

When are you in Essaouira in February chances are you get lucky and nothing but sunshine and blue skies. Still, the evenings will be chilly and you may be in the mood for a pizza and a couple of glasses of red. I have never made a secret about being a pizza snob but I can make concessions when I am not in a country known for its great pizza.

I did a little Google search and came across Silvestro praised for its pizza and pasta. How bad could it be? 

The decor is somewhere between nostalgic and dusty, with flower wallpaper and leftover Christmas decorations. We were off to a good start! I ordered house red and an incredible 60 dirham got me a glass the size of a baby’s head and a pizza with anchovies and capers. 

I rate the pizza a decent 7/10. It was cheesy, salty, and an all around good pizza. I noticed that they may have used something like semolina flour for the dough. And while I have used that before myself to give a crispier texture, they overdid it a bit and made the dough taste too grainy. But together with the fast and friendly service, I honestly had no complaints so if you are looking for a good pizza in Essaouira, Silvestro is a safe bet. 

The Loft

The Loft is almost an institution in the Medina and is often considered one of the best restaurants in Essaouira. It is also well known for its quirky retro design. I’d say it is a good choice if you come for a cozy dinner as the room is a bit dark though. 

On the menu are various seafood dishes, obviously with a Moroccan spin. They have gotten high praise for their grilled octopus. I went for the crab salad with avocado mousse which was fresh and delicious. It had some fruity components (aka dots and sauce smears) that worked well with the sweet crab meat. Since I visited on a chilly February evening I went for the prawn and calamari pasta afterward. While the calamari was incredibly tender the whole dish was a bit too rich and something I could make at home. Still, it was just what I needed that evening!

Also note, that they don’t have a liquor license so unfortunately you won’t be able to get wine or beer with your meal. 

MIMTI

MIMTI, formerly Azouka Eatery, was another recommendation from a Moroccan friend that I tried for lunch. Their motto: Moroccan cuisine, modern spirit. And despite the name change, they still get all of their produce from Azouka Farm, making it a true farm-to-table restaurant in Essaouira.

It is located on the first floor at the Place Al Khaima and offers a charming, somewhat higgledy-piggledy interior. Equally charming are co-owner Soufiane and his staff. 

On the menu, you will find seasonal tapas, a daily-changing main course, and a great selection of fermented drinks, including some of the best water kefir I have had. Mains currently include Friday’s seafood couscous and Saturday’s sardine kefta tagine. 

I went for the tomato and plum salad with whipped tahini and the salt-cured sardines on a courgette flatbread with pickled lemons. Let’s just say, I was sad I couldn’t eat more. I recommend you make this your first stop in Essaouira so you can come back later during your trip and try more!

Koozina Garden

Koozina Garden is a strange little place, just outside the Medina walls. It is a bit hard to describe as it is part tea house, part garden parlor, but without the garden.

I know I am not doing my best to sell it, but maybe that isn’t necessary. Maybe the food can just speak for itself. I found it the perfect mix of traditional Moroccan dishes and a healthy dose of greens. On the menu, you will find meat, veggie, and fish dishes, some a refined take on Moroccan classics. 

Not a big tea drinker myself, it was an overcast day, so I went for a rose and verbena tea, which was delicious. I ordered the pastilla to eat, made with free-range chicken. Pastilla is a traditional Moroccan dish that resembles a pie, for lack of a better comparison. Important to remember: while the original pastilla contains chicken, it also contains cinnamon and powdered sugar, making it overall sweeter than you may be used to. Please don’t complain about that on Google, pastilla is meant to taste this way! 

I digress. It was probably the best pastilla I’ve ever had! The dough was flaky and crispy, the chicken juicy, and the seasoning on point. In addition, it came with a lovely salad with seeds and fruits. I can’t wait to go back and try all of their fish dishes, which are also supposed to be amazing. 

Dar Baba 

Why I came across Dar Baba only now, I don’t know, because it is one of those Essaouira restaurants that has been around forever. The interior is eclectic and fun, and looks a bit like the grown-up sister of the Loft. 

As with many places in Essaouira, you will need to brave a few flights of stairs to get to the bar. And the main dining room is one floor above that. 

Unlike many eateries in Essaouira, they do serve alcohol and have a great cocktail menu. I recommend you try the Argan Sour, a slightly less sour version of a regular Whiskey Sour, thanks to the argan oil. 

The food menu is not as seafood-heavy as you would expect from an Essaouira restaurant, but has something for everyone. If you do eat seafood, I would highly recommend you go for the avocado and crab. While that seems to be an Essaouira staple, they do it particularly well here, and the sweet crab really shines. 

For mains, I went with the red prawn ravioli, which could have been a bit more prawn-y and less cream-saucy for my liking, but was still a nice dish. I heard good things about the rock octopus and am keen to try that next time. 

Essaouira Fish Market

The fish market in the center of town is not a restaurant in Essaouira per se but still a great place to get lunch. First, you will need to gather your French skills and buy the fish or seafood you want to eat. Just walk around and take a look at what the different vendors offer. 

After you pay for your wares you may want to hand it off to one of the guys who clean the fish for a small fee. Don’t worry, chances are you will already get approached while you shop. 

Clean fish in hand you can approach any of the adjacent little eateries and hand your bag over to the chef. They will grill or fry it for you. I went for some freshly grilled sardines and small sweet shrimp and was happy with both as was my new cat friend.  In addition, you can order fries, salad, olives, harissa to dip, and of course, tea. Perfect accompanies to your seafood and not pricey at all! 

Essaouira Port

You can also get your fish and sometimes more interesting things like a whole lobster directly from the port and take it to the open-air restaurants that set up grills on the side. 

I haven’t eaten there, but I do come for the freshly shucked oysters. There are various stalls, but I like this guy: 

He sells oysters, whelk (delicious), and sea urchin – all of them as fresh as can be and at an absolute steal! 

Where not to eat in Essaouira? 

I frequently ask readers if they want to be warned ‘where not to eat in city XYZ’. Because, as much as I try to do my research, sometimes I also end up with some duds, I wouldn’t recommend to anyone. 

The answer is usually a resounding ‘yes, warn us!’ That said, I don’t want to slam a restaurant in case my bad experience was a once-off, and I don’t want to get sued either. 

So I will try and be diplomatic: In Essaouira I would avoid most rooftop restaurants at Place Moulay Hassan and those along the Skala. There is a very famous seafood restaurant in Essaouira that is just not worth the hype or money (Google it, and if it reminds you of the ocean, you have found the place). I also recently went to the restaurant of a colorful riad in Essaouira and was thoroughly disappointed. The service was bad, and the prawns were pricey and overcooked. Don’t go there!

Have a sundowner at any of those places, then head to one of the restaurants mentioned above for dinner.

General tips for your Essaouira food adventure

Do I need to tip at the restaurants in Essaouira? Not really. While some fancier places in Morocco do add a mandatory service charge of 7-7,5 % most Essaouira restaurants don’t. That said, if you leave a small tip it is usually greatly appreciated. I would normally round up or leave about 10 % if I enjoyed my meal. I wouldn’t tip at the fish market. 

By the way – most restaurants in Essaouira accept credit card or cash these days. Dirham that is, I have not seen any prices in Euro in Essaouira.

How to get to Essaouira

Essaouira is about 220 km from Marrakech. You can either take a private transfer and stop at Val d’Argan for lunch and wine tasting, or take the bus. 

Taking the bus from Marrakech and Essaouira is really easy and inexpensive. You can get your ticket for the Supratour here:

The bus station in Marrakech is here. Unless you have luggage, you can take your digital ticket and head straight to your bus. Just ask the staff at the entrance where to go, everyone speaks English and is really friendly. If you have a suitcase, you need to go to the baggage counter first and buy a ticket for 6 MAD. You will get a sticker for your suitcase and hand it to the luggage handler at the bus. The second sticker is for you to keep, just in case. 

The bus journey takes about 3 hours, including a 20-minute stop to use the toilet or get a coffee. 

The Supratour station in Essaouira is just outside the Medina. Whether you want to buy a ticket or get your luggage tag, there is only one counter here. Next to it, you will find a kiosk where you can stock up on snacks. 

Where to stay in Essaouira? 

Unless you are craving countryside life, I recommend you stay in the Essaouira Medina. The whole Medina is very walkable and, compared to Marrakech, easy to navigate. 

I really like Riad Dar Sebta and the newly opened Riad Le Myrath. Both are nicely furnished, offer a good breakfast, and have a lovely rooftop terrace. 

Heading to Marrakech after?
Find the best Marrakech food & restaurants here!

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